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Dire Direct 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Keller, Mike Lyons, Brian Wieland, Jake Anderegg, 1996
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Tyler King on Jun 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Eric working those delicate moves on Dire Direct

Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>


The bolted line on the mottled face just right of the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route. This route starts at the belay ledge at the top of the Ellsworth-McQuarrie 2nd pitch and climbs 2 pitchs to meet back up with the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route.

From the Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay ledge, climb up and right to clip your first bolt. 6 bolts up this face and 100' of somewhat spacey, 5.10 climbing on crumbly rock brings you to another ledge (where the next Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay is located). Continue climbing up a thin crack (a .4 can be placed here). The Piton at the top of this crack is missing so bring micros and cross your fingers. Traverse to the right and clip the next bolt. 4 more bolts and up through the 10d crux brings you to the 2 bolt belay. A few more bolts and some gear will bring you to the Ellsworth-McQuarrie pitch 5 anchors. A 60 meter rope will get you down fine.

Don't let the crumbly rock deter you! It's not quite as bad as the top of Ellsworth-McQuarrie. Get out there and test your finesse on those flexing flakes...


Same gear as for Ellsworth-McQuarrie, and maybe a couple of micros or RPs + 10 draws for bolts.

Photos of Dire Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Dire Direct
Me leading Dire Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric starting out on Dire Direct
Eric starting out on Dire Direct

Comments on Dire Direct Add Comment
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By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 6, 2010

Sorry about the missing piton, it is now my souvenir. You wouldn't have wanted to fall, or take on it anyway, trust me!
By zoso
Jun 6, 2010

Speaking from experience?

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