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Diplomatic Immunity 

A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches
Original: A3 [details]
FA: L.M.
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Luke Malatesta on Oct 30, 2008

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  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Pitch 1- Climb the old A4 pitch " Short but Cute" (mostly clean) to a 2 bolt belay (A2). Best to link this with the next pitch as it is really short.

    Pitch 2- Continue in corner up to the old bail bolt, thin beaking (filed beaks useful) leads to a bolt where the seam dies out. Clip the bolt and hook/free climb up to a stance and 3 bolt belay (A2+/A3).

    Pitch 3- Walk right on ledge and use a rivet to help your transition into the obvious seam. More thin beaking leads to another rivet, move off this and continue beaking to a rivet ladder to a 2 bolt belay. Filed beaks useful- Bad fall over ledge. No Bolts,only rivets on this pitch (A3)

    Pitch 4- Climb the bolt ladder (A0 5 Bolts) to the overhanging seam(s). Nail/Beak up the corner, clip a bolt and transition to more of the same in the next seam/corner. 3 bolt belay (A2)

    Pitch 5- Take the left crack off of the belay (mostly c1), clip a bolt when this ends and lean into the right facing corner. Nail up this corner to a slopey stance and a 3 bolt belay. There is some rotten and expanding rock in the upper part of this pitch- Use caution (A3)

    Many of the pitches are short and could be linked. I am not sure of the grade. Rap route for descent.

    Location 

    Left of Potash Sanction and right of Astrolad

    Protection 

    12-15 beaks
    Pika Toucans
    1 Set offset nuts
    1 Set offset Aliens
    1 Set Aliens - Black-Clear
    1 Set C3's
    Hooks
    1 Set angles - triples in #1 & #2
    Rivet Hangers
    Screamers


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