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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Claude Fiddler
Page Views: 1,500
Submitted By: Paolo Milana on Nov 20, 2004

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In my opinion the best route of Diablo. Climbs a series of very small crimps immediately right of "Diagonal Crack".The first bolt is 15 feet high, but after you boulder or TR the start a couple of times it does not scares you anymore. Offers a wide variety of face moves including sidepulls, mantles, and highstepping on tiny holds.Arrange long anchor slings if you want to avoid the final runout mantle on loose rock. Reminds of J.Tree kind of climbing.


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By Paolo Milana
Nov 21, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Dinosaur 11d , Lower Tier, Fantastic technical slab route. Climbs for little less than 30 meters the slightly below vertical face immediately left of Diagonal Crack. Incredible moves on very small holds and footholds, new bolts. The best route of the area for that grade hands down.
By Paolo Milana
Oct 1, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I would like to upgrade this route, either holds broke or is the hardest 11d I ever tried. It's a 12 and very heat dependent, beautiful if you like SMALL crimps and intense footwork.
By Patrick Sawyer
From: Californian Living in Ireland
Jun 8, 2006

I worked this route (if it is the one the description sounds like) for a long time in 1973 and 1974, though Claude Fiddler beat me to finish it in the end (we both worked it together and separately). I think it is one of the best climbs on the mountain.
By scalparm
From: Vienna, Austria
Apr 29, 2008

By far the hardest 11d ever! I only worked it once and took at every bolt. It's a puzzle to find the holds and they're super crimpy or slopey and it's SUPER sustained. Would be a very proud send. 5.12a/b I thinks. Quality climb.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jan 2, 2012

Top roped this today. A bit stout.
By jimi thornburg
Apr 2, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13

I replaced the old (chopped for some reason) anchor yesterday. The anchor is in a good spot for top-roping, but it also protects the last moves when leading (as the original anchor once did). The runout is still big to the anchor, but maybe not R...just really scary!

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