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Stick clip for hard moves right off the ground. Step up and lay away a short steep crack to a a very positive shelf. Keep with it until you've pulled over the shelf and made the second clip then jug haul the gently overhanging wall into a crack to finish. This is a fun and pumpy route, but don't underestimate the opening moves.
Far north end of Lilly Bluff above the old walk up from the road.
Bolts to ring anchors.
By Travis Griggs
Mar 4, 2013
This route doesn't get as much traffic as the nearby Paraphernalia (5.10b/c), but I always thought Dino Jr was the better route. I highly recommend you stickclip the first bolt. If you blow the cruxy opening moves -- a powerful layback and slap to the shelf -- you'll end up crashing down off-balance onto a large pointy bolder.
The climbing eases substantially higher on the route, but the pump can sneak up on you during the final steep moves to the anchors. Good route.