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Wild Boar S 

Dinky Twinkies 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Entering the crux sequence

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the outside of the large flake. The crux is midway up the flake. At the top of the flake, trend up and left to the belay.

Location 

Left side of crag, on large flake resting against wall.

Protection 

Gear needed for the upper half, though the crux section at the bottom is bolted.


Photos of Dinky Twinkies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dinky Twinkies post-renovation. Climber is hanging...
BETA PHOTO: Dinky Twinkies post-renovation. Climber is hanging...

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By Jtetzlaff
Aug 1, 2013

Missing hanger on 2nd bolt.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
May 19, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route probably hadn't been climbed in a while before today. I replaced the second hanger and cleaned the upper half to make it worth it (but the upper bit is still pretty dirty).

It climbs best if you go up the flake (clean) and then left across the top to the splitter hand crack, staying on the arete above (good gear). Stay out of the bushy corner as much as possible.

This route is at least 2 stars in my opinion and lets you hang a top rope on Keith's Crack / Wild Boar.
By Josh Lowy
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fantastic route! The movement on the flake at the start is techy and fun to warmup on. The top doesn't need much protection, and drops in difficulty. Also extremely photogenic ;)
No problems with any of the bolts/hangers.

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