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San Ysidro (Upper)
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Dinky Pinkies T 
Gnome Fingers T 

Dinky Pinkies 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Curt Dixon, Jeff Schloss - 1979
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Apr 30, 2016

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Gnome Fingers finish.

Description 

Thin face moves (sustained 5.10+) lead up and left, joining with Gnome Fingers where the crack exits the small roof.
A couple small stoppers offer some protection, but falling from the final moves before Gnome Fingers will produce a ground fall, dropping the leader on the rocks below.
Finish up Gnome Fingers.

Location 

To the right and uphill from Gnome Fingers; directly beneath an old, hangerless bolt. Begin with both hands in the slanting crack, then move up and left.

Protection 

Small stoppers for the start. Small cams and tcu's for Gnome Fingers.


Photos of Dinky Pinkies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start.
The start.
Rock Climbing Photo: 4.29.16 - photo: alex bury
4.29.16 - photo: alex bury

Comments on Dinky Pinkies Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 30, 2016

For leaders looking for a bit more challenge than the standard Gnome Fingers, this version makes things more interesting. Sequency moves over small stoppers lead to some make-or-break moves getting into the upper crack proper.
A clump of poison oak stands between the Gnome Fingers start and Dinky Pinkies; tread carefully.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 30, 2016

Nice work, Alex. I tried to start the route years ago, but there was so much PO I couldn't justify the rope contamination. Is it manageable now?
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 30, 2016

Poison Oak is all over this crag, and pulling the rope off Gnome Fingers will almost certainly drop your line right in it. That said, it can be avoided to an extent.
From the Gnome Fingers start, scramble down and around to avoid the clump and reach Dinky Pinkies.
The creek is currently running well so its possible to wash off on the way out.