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YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Antoine Savelli & Teri Savelli, 1986
New Route: Yes
Season: Year-round
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013

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This is the first multi-pitch bolted route put up in 1986. It was very controversial at that time.

It is left of Hot Wee Wee and right of Dr. Gizmo.

First pitch: climb dead center on slab, clipping 3 bolts, climb over a roof, 6c+ or 5.11d passing a fixed pin to belay.

The second pitch goes diagonally left and upwards towards first crux at 8a or 5.13b and then to an easier crux. It is all on bolts at 7a+/7b or 5.12b/c and goes to double bolt anchors.

Third pitch: traverse right to a 6b or 5.11a move, then straight to a short 6a or 5.10b traverse on some bolts and natural pro, finishing on buckets: it is beautiful and exposed.


This is on the left Main Ophir Wall, right of Dr. Gizmo and left of Hot Wee Wee.


10 clips, bring a small single rack from RPs to #3 Friend.

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