Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Primo T,S 
Blue Moon T,S 
Chameleon, The T 
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 
Comes a Time T 
Dingomaniaque S 
Dr. Gizmo T 
Emotional Rescue T 
Feeling Edgy T,S 
Honey Pot Dihedral T 
Horse Play T 
Hot Wee Wee T 
Morning Glory T,S 
Opharian Complex T 
Post Office Crack T 
Rainbow Warrior S 
Savelli Express T 
Total Recall S 
White Salamander S 
Y-Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dingomaniaque 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Antoine Savelli & Teri Savelli, 1986
New Route: Yes
Season: Year-round
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the first multi-pitch bolted route put up in 1986. It was very controversial at that time.

It is left of Hot Wee Wee and right of Dr. Gizmo.

First pitch: climb dead center on slab, clipping 3 bolts, climb over a roof, 6c+ or 5.11d passing a fixed pin to belay.

The second pitch goes diagonally left and upwards towards first crux at 8a or 5.13b and then to an easier crux. It is all on bolts at 7a+/7b or 5.12b/c and goes to double bolt anchors.

Third pitch: traverse right to a 6b or 5.11a move, then straight to a short 6a or 5.10b traverse on some bolts and natural pro, finishing on buckets: it is beautiful and exposed.

Location 

This is on the left Main Ophir Wall, right of Dr. Gizmo and left of Hot Wee Wee.

Protection 

10 clips, bring a small single rack from RPs to #3 Friend.


Comments on Dingomaniaque Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -