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Dimples 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Cordner
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 1, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Tenuous! Well at least the last 20 or so feet are. Or maybe it's just because one is spoiled with the previous abundance of positive holds on the arete down lower. The pitch starts up a low angled right facing corner protected by 2 bolts. The first one seemed unnecessary and the second seemed to low and would have been better out on the face to the left. The third bolt is hard to reach for those of us with t-rex arms but protects a few difficult moves getting on the arete. At this point you know, game on. A 2 finger pocket helps if you find it. Thoughtful movement along the arete help you link one jug to the next but eventually, somewhere around the 11th or 12 bolt, your luck runs out and you'r left with the question, do I go left or do I go right? I will leave that up to you to decide although I am not sure one way is better than the other. At this point I am unsure if I loved or hatted this route. I guess I just don't like that insecure feeling of feeling insecure. There are ample bolts so a fall is no big deal. In the end if you figure out the puzzles of getting from bolt to bolt without falling you will also wonder if you loved it too. Nice route Kelly.

Location 

Left hand side of the Junior Wall up the obvious clean low angle right facing corner and just right of a steep right leaning crack/seam that makes up the route Junior Achievement.

Protection 

14 bolts but you could easily skip the first. You could skip the second as well but it might keep you off the ground if you fall trying to clip the third.


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