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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Montesanto
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,525
Submitted By: Steve Montesanto on Aug 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: stepping into the crux on Dillinger

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


5.10 face climbing right of the ground and past 3 bolts leads to a good ledge (a stick clip may help for the first bolt). The real business starts here climbing off the ledge and onto the bulge. Quite sustained from 5th to 7th bolt with hardest moves occurring around the 6th. From here 5.10 terrain past a couple of more bolts to the anchors.


Start 15 ft. right and slightly up the hill from the start of Roman Holiday. There is a dug out alcove in the dirt hillside which provides a flat space to belay from....this marks the start.


9 bolts with mussy hooks at anchors.

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By Steve Montesanto
Aug 30, 2013

Not sure about the rating on this one....curious what others think. Crux section is sustained and the hardest couple of moves feel about V3/4 to me.
By jimi thornburg
Mar 16, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Short, desperate crux! Great rock. Thanks for cleaning your routes so well Steve!
By Cave Man McElroy
From: auburn
May 29, 2014

crux for me was right after 5th bolt. once you understand the sequence its still slightly powerful for 1 move. This and the route to the right are excellent. i swear an engineer built the belay ledge.
By Craig Thornley
From: Auburn, California
Jan 20, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice route. Very clean and well bolted.

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