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Morrison Routes
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5.7 Rail Route T,TR 
Dihedral Route T 
Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) TR 
Juggmo T,TR 
Morrison Solo T,TR 
Nautilus Cave Pitch, The T,TR 
Price For Fire, The S 
Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty) S 
Tongue, The T 
Unknown Slab route TR 
White Crack Route T,TR 
Z is Last, But This is First S,TR 
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Dihedral Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: Tim C on Apr 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The route showing with the toprope set from the sa...


Lead up into the Black and White dihedral. Head up until it kicks you out right. It is easier if you head right with high hand and bad feet (compared to a little lower with good feet and bad hands). Then head back up when the roof ends.


This is at the Black and White Dihedral a few hundred feet north of the Cave Route.


Trad rack, Long draws to reduce rope drag, less then 3 inch gear.

Photos of Dihedral Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux, good pro in the cracks.
The crux, good pro in the cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor.
The anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Goes right up the center.
BETA PHOTO: Goes right up the center.

Comments on Dihedral Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route. Amazing exposure for a 60-footer. Make sure you bring some long runners to manage rope drag. This thing is still exfoliating, and there is a loose square-shaped block at the crux. It's not required to pull through. I'll try to trundle it next time I'm up there.

I think a 4" piece would be helpful, but the largest I brought up was a #3.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I had a 4" piece, but the largest I used was a 3" piece. I saw places for a 4" piece, but I don't think it is necessary
By Furthermore
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

The "Good" gear placements near the top are on some precarious blocks. I sure wouldn't want to take a whipper and have the forces of the cams loosen those blocks. I only say that because I have had a similar failure of the rock while at Morrison.
By David Oyler
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Fun route, although TR'ing it meant being pulled to the right for the first half. At the halfway point, there was a bird's nest, although it's deeper into the crack there, so I was able to quickly move past it.

As mentioned, the anchors up top held strong, but because it'd be a hefty whipper (my friend took the whipper when attempting this route), the shear forces would be strong on the rock. Other than setting gear in the cracks (TR) rather than use the anchors, or leading it with trad gear, I'm not sure how to protect it better (stronger and more solid, and/or more centered).

Fun route though!

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