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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Digital Readout 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Lester, Chip Chace
Page Views: 5,584
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Aaron Livingston redpointing Digital Readout as it...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Ouch. This is the obvious and painful looking fingers crack just left of the Cave Route. The first 35-40 feet are tough, but do-able, with the assorted features on the face for feet. The last fifteen feet to the anchors are just incredibly hard, a fingertips crack with very few foot features. I still haven't figured out this crux.


small stuff- nothing bigger than 1.5

Photos of Digital Readout Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: -
Rock Climbing Photo: Digital Readout
Digital Readout
Rock Climbing Photo: Giving D.R. another redpoint attempt. (Photo taken...
Giving D.R. another redpoint attempt. (Photo taken...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is what this route keeps doing to my finger b...
This is what this route keeps doing to my finger b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Trippett getting Digitalized!
Mr. Trippett getting Digitalized!
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the crux
Entering the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Into the meat of the pitch
Into the meat of the pitch

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 6, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 14, 2002

The crux is easy: Jam really hard in the first 40' so that your fingers are numb by the time you get to the rest before the crux. Rest at the last footholds, bite your tongue, paste your feet and f--ing crank to the chains!
By Andy Johnson
Jun 21, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Sep 5, 2006

No where near a clean lead, I ended up aiding the upper half.
But. . . 2 Blue aliens and 6 or so green is all you need for this pitch!!
My fingers still hurt.. .
By m-earle
From: USA
Oct 30, 2006

tough moves getting off the ground. decent fingers for the middle, one or two foot rests, but the last 15 feet the crack goes back to tips. if you send this route, dont expect to have anything left resembling fingers.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Mar 13, 2007

The crux isn't hard to figure out . . . Just hard to DO!!!
Made it up this time w/out aid but still took a few for the team!!
Decided to sprint the last 10ft to the anchs... desperation set in, fingers came out and, I went down!! Fun ride though!!
Save this for the last climb of the trip or your fingers won't be worth shit for the next route!!
By charley graham
Nov 26, 2009

In the 1988 American Alpine Journal, Eric Bjornstad contributed that this route was put up by Alan Lester and Chip Chace.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I'm not sure where you would place two blue Aliens, maybe at the start if your short? Green Aliens and .3 Camalots are all you need for this climb. I think 7 or 8 will sew it up.
By Keith Beckley
Oct 22, 2011

I wanted to try this on TR but really couldnt get my fingers in much.....i thought id break em if i fell...SUPER hard for big fingers....or im just lame..5.13 tips for me
By Tommy L-D
Jan 26, 2012

Destroyed my fingers, never were the same for the rest of the trip.

...But it hurt sooo good
By Skylar Smith
Apr 17, 2012

More like digital bleedout than digital readout. Shredded my fingers.....not fun!
By Mike broad
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 2, 2015

For the last part before the chains, save a x4 .3 (or probably a green alien). The regular .3 c4 is slightly too big there and doesn't fit!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 2, 2015

^ sounds like a blue metolius would be ideal
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 6, 2015

Per usual the beta in the book is off. Heavy on .3 camalots. Only a couple places where you can get a .4 in. Brutal line, but there are certainly more harsh finger cracks out there.

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