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Digital Extraction 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '82
Page Views: 3,758
Submitted By: t.schwartz on Nov 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with an incredibility balancing thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.


First crack right(south)of El Matador


Lots of small gear, there are a few spots for a #1 and a .75 camalot. hanging belays.

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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Dec 9, 2009

A surprisingly overlooked classic! The first pitch has seen a bit of activity in the last few seasons, keeping it clean...haven't done the second pitch yet, or talked to anyone who has recently, it looks to have some sizable shrubbery in a couple spots and the status of the anchor sounds questionable...anyone been on it lately?
By Handsome B. Wonderful
Apr 30, 2011

Actually- I think the original name was "Christians in Cam a lot". The story behind it is really funny, but I will let you do the research on that.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Oct 24, 2016

2nd pitch anchors replaced by Joel McKillop and Lee Terveen on 10/22/16. Buttonhead protection bolt on pitch 2 is gone. It protects fine with small cams and nuts.

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