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Climb the slightly steeper than vertical handcrack 15 feet to the ledge. From here, climb the offwidth dihedral as it widens slightly as you get higher. Pull around the right side of the triangular roof, continuing in the crack past a small tree. Go around the left side of the tree, if you aren't too sketched, to reduce rope drag. 5 more feet of face climbing gets you to the anchors. Awesome rock, awesome climb!
Near the right end of the Dark Side Wall is a large dihedral with a 4-5" offwidth. Start in the handcrack under the right side of the ledge.
Pro to the big stuff. 2 bolt anchor, accessed from the top. Rap or lower.
Some house cleaning would be nice for a left exit....
Oh soooooooo goooooooooood.
Moving the gear around to attack right side in.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Mar 10, 2013
Beta for the offwidth section. Standing on the ledge rack up to one side a #4, #5 and a #6 camalot. Place the #4 as high as you can and start up. Put in the #5 when you need to and push it up as you go all the way until to you reach the wider part with the lay back rail in the crack. Place the #6 above and continue to the stance under the roof. The #5 will scoot fine and you will basically be on toprope the entire time your struggling up this awesome crack.
By C. Archibald
Apr 26, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We didn't have a 6, but were able to protect this pretty well with a two 4's and two 5's. We scooted the 5's through the wide part. This is one of the best crack climbs at Sam's, in my opinion. So classic.
Nov 4, 2016
beta- get your knee stuck 4 times in a row