REI Community
High Energy Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diet of Worms T,TR 
Imp-Passible Crack T 
Neutron Star T,TR 

Diet of Worms 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Erickson, A. Higbee, D. Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 17, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The hand crack turns to wide here, and it gets per...

  • Open to climbing MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the prominent line that catches your eye up the large dihedral of the crag. Short, yep, but fun. Pump, commitment, gear placements all packed into 25 feet of climbing.

    This little crag lies about 9 miles from Elephant Buttresses up the canyon. It is best visualized from the uphill side. Scramble up. Obscure, yes. Long, no. Fun, Yes.

    Easier than Proton and Neutron Star but full value. Fire up this corner with good holds. Its brief steepness at the crux requires more muscle than technique. Good pro minimizes the flying. It's over quickly but likely you've broken a sweat, eh? 11a, doubt it (ya gotta look at the first ascentionists); however in some locales when the ratings run a bit soft, it might be rated such. Gives you respect for those who tread here before thee.


    To a #4 Friend. There is room for a yellow Alien, 2 x #2 Friend, #3 Friend, red Alien, #1 1/2 Friend. #3 1/2 Friend, orange Alien and tree for anchor.

    Photos of Diet of Worms Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leaning out to move around the roof to the short o...
    Leaning out to move around the roof to the short o...

    Comments on Diet of Worms Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By matthew sawyer
    May 16, 2003

    I took a shot at Diet when I was I pretty good 5.9 trad leader, and was stumped, pumped, and felt like I had just been...jumped. Mentioned my difficulties to some fella, what was his name, oh yes Dan Hare, whomI guess some of you might have heard of, he said not to worry about my difficulties, that when he did Diet he thought it might be 5.11a, maybe harder? Must mention Star Span, 5.11c, as the main attraction here, though I have not yet tried it, maybe next week!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 18, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Harder than 5.10a. 10b or 10c to onsight it. Apparently both my partner and I missed a key hold and "burly-d" through the crux, finding it later. No less, the climb is difficult. Fun too, but too short to be a destination climb.

    Under the roof there are 2 flakes the inner flake seems socketed in pretty well, but the outer one, and one which is tempting to put gear in behind is dicey at best. Beware!

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About