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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Ormes' Chimney T 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

Diesel and Dust 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ric and Cindy Geiman in 1990
Page Views: 5,082
Submitted By: Dave Chenault on Nov 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Rappeling down!

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  • Description 

    This is the first sport route left of New Era. Start on moderate ground, crimping up solid, incut, iron-oxide rails. Move left and up, then over a bulge (crux), then right to anchors. This is very soft 5.11. A second pitch exists, which is rated 5.11, but it is more like mid-range 5.10, and is high quality face climbing on good holds in an awesome position. Do both pitches, rap once with two ropes, twice with one.


    Some draws.

    Photos of Diesel and Dust Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
    At the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another teeth-clenching crimp.
    Another teeth-clenching crimp.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Logan Berndt on Diesel and Dust.
    Logan Berndt on Diesel and Dust.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Slavens starting the crux of Diesel and Dust.
    Mike Slavens starting the crux of Diesel and Dust.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hayden on the starting moves of Diesel and Dust.  ...
    Hayden on the starting moves of Diesel and Dust. ...

    Comments on Diesel and Dust Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 9, 2015
    By Chamo Breslin
    Sep 10, 2004

    Confused about this route: at the top, before the angle kicks back, I always traverse right up a small ramp, make the last clip awkwardly, then move up and back directly left to get to the anchors. This seems so weak to me, doesn't follow the line of protection, and leaves me feeling like I still haven't climbed this route. But I've dogged for minutes on end contemplating that last steep section that stays true to the line of bolts and can't even see a hold. Any help on this? Pura vida.
    By Bill Parmenter
    Jan 1, 2005

    WARNING! As of today someone had removed the hangers from the anchors at the top of pitch two.
    By Stewart M. Green
    Sep 19, 2005

    Diesel and Dust now has new beefy stainless steel anchors, courtesy of Climbing Magazine and Petzl.
    By loc
    From: colorado springs co
    Mar 22, 2007

    Anyone know what the second pitch is like?
    By Cody Cook
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jul 23, 2007
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Did both pitches yesterday for the first time. I've done the first pitch many times, but never went on to second. Found second to be a lot of fun. Crux comes early, between the second and third bolt. Slightly overhanging on thin hands. I felt the P2 crux move was harder than any single move on the first pitch. After that the grade eases to .9 climbing to the anchors. We couldn't find P2 anchors, and ended up traversing 20 feet left on easy terrain to the P2 Alligator Soup anchors. Both pitches make for a great climb.
    By Dan Dalton
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 12, 2007
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    FA: Ric and Cindy Geiman in 1990.
    By Jeremy Hakes
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Jun 7, 2008

    The slings at the top of this are in need of replacing. Both looked rotten and old.
    By Cody Cook
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jun 9, 2008
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    I assume you're referring to the slings at the top of the New Generation pitch (according to D'Antonio's guide). This is the alternative pitch 2 above Diesel and Dust that traverses right for about 20 feet from the chains atop D&D P1 (as opposed to the true D&D P2 that goes straight up from the chains and has no anchors or slings at the top - they got chopped years ago).

    If so, I agree. A buddy and I did this pitch a few weeks ago. We weren't too confident in the webbing or the stacked pins, and didn't think that rapping would be a great idea. Instead, we thought it safer and quiet easy to traverse right from the anchors and downclimb into the P2 belay alcove of New Era.

    Not too many folks climb the New Generation pitch, but this would be a good one to have a knife on. That webbing certainly needs to go.
    By Michael Murphy
    Mar 26, 2009

    Second pitch anchors replaced in the fall of 2008.
    By Mike Slavens
    From: Houston, TX
    Dec 29, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Definitely a "feel good" 5.11, but fun nonetheless. It's rare to find solid crimps like this at the Garden which is the land of sand and home of "pull down not out".
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
    Oct 15, 2012

    Great 11a. Climb cut face holds to honeycomb looking things to more cut, slanted, face holds. Great, sustained climb! Nice rap rings at the top, too!
    By Canyon Lester
    Jul 9, 2015
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    First few bolts are easy. Holds are easy to find. Good variety of small ledges, sidepull, even an undercling, and a multi-finger pocket. 2nd to last bolt up to the anchor gets pretty pumpy. Great route. Watch out for storms rolling in. Good times.

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