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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Baldwin & Sinclair '62, FFA: Woodsworth & Lasserre '63
Page Views: 42,449
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006

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looking up as my partner leads the fun pitches on ...


Diedre climbs a small right facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab. Over 100m of consistent laybacking on nicely textured rock make this climb very popular; arrive early or be prepared to join a line.

P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.

P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.

P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.

P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.

P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.

P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.


Follow the trail from the parking lot past the toilet. Head left until reaching a 3rd class gully heading up and right. Climb the gully, then continue up the subsequent ledge system to the right, climbing a 3rd class step to a final ledge system which leads up and right to the low angle slabs of the south apron.

To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).


Gear to 2", emphasizing stoppers and small cams. Bring nothing larger than a #2 camalot. If you want to sew the route up, doubles of small to mid-size stoppers and a few doubles of cams below 0.75 will serve you well. A pink tri-cam works well in a flaring scar on the final pitch. All belays are bolted.

Photos of Diedre Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Diedre Topo (Pitch 1)
BETA PHOTO: Diedre Topo (Pitch 1)
Rock Climbing Photo: I think the 3rd pitch.
I think the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Dierdre - it's steeper than it looks!
Starting up Dierdre - it's steeper than it looks!
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fabric of my Dreams
The Fabric of my Dreams
Rock Climbing Photo: Free soloing Deidre....haha.
Free soloing Deidre....haha.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at P3 and the start of the long corner ...
Looking up at P3 and the start of the long corner ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Giving you a better idea of what the route is like...
BETA PHOTO: Giving you a better idea of what the route is like...
Rock Climbing Photo: Diedre.
Rock Climbing Photo: Diedre from the Apron parking lot, highlighting th...
Diedre from the Apron parking lot, highlighting th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Money pitches!
The Money pitches!
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on Diedre, July 2010
Andy on Diedre, July 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Joanne finishing the fourth pitch of Diedre.
Joanne finishing the fourth pitch of Diedre.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4 or 5
Pitch 4 or 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice early morning fingers. Fun cruising!
Nice early morning fingers. Fun cruising!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kimberly enjoying the clean cracks!
Kimberly enjoying the clean cracks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Can you say kid in a candy store?
Can you say kid in a candy store?
Rock Climbing Photo: I thought that I had died and gone to well....  Sq...
I thought that I had died and gone to well.... Sq...
Rock Climbing Photo: diedre
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking across the P2 traverse
BETA PHOTO: Looking across the P2 traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Joanne Robertson somewhere on the first three pitc...
Joanne Robertson somewhere on the first three pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing route a must do!
Amazing route a must do!

Comments on Diedre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2016
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
May 10, 2007

One can link Pitches 2 and 3 (as they are described here) with a 60m rope.
By BenCooper
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Diedre also makes a good first simul-climb. The rating is easy, the gear, aside from the runout slab portions, is plentiful and solid. And it'll get you past the multitude of parties that commonly choke the route's belay bolts.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

have fun, but be careful if its wet. the top out is really wet right now and felt pretty spooky, but at least the gear is good.

great climb, would have been a 5 star route if it had been dry!
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really fun as a start to Ultimate Everything. We linked p1+p2, p3+p4, and p5+p6, but note pitch lengths as so nicely described above: this involves a fair amount of simulclimbing, at 5.8 (though it's quite soft at this grade). Bring as many finger-sized cams as you want, or perhaps a double set of stoppers - it eats pro!
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 19, 2009

was a great climb!!! loved it!
By Hoag Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

An excellent route if you're looking to be introduced to The Chief.

My wife and I had only one day in Squamish and chose Diedre. It was a good choice to say the least.

Definitely link pitches 2 and 3 to save time. The crack is likely wet most of the time but, if you can keep your shoes dry, it's still very climbable and enjoyable.

The last pitch is super runout until the final few moves. Find a piton in a seem to your right, protect below it with a BD #2 and make a bouldery move over the ledge to the trees.

The exit through trees is beautiful.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route though but, often busy. If it is, there are a ton of other fantastic options right there. Pretty low angle the whole way, bring some smaller gear for the corner, plenty of nuts.
Oct 10, 2012

If this is 5.8...Nutcracker must be 5.10. Nothing harder than 5.6 on this route.
By aaronfm
Jun 25, 2014

I tried to link pitches 5-6 with a (new) 70m rope and came up ~10m short, so it seems some simul-climbing is necessary even with a 70.
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Feb 29, 2016

one thing I learned with climbing at Squamish(a couple of dozen routes), it appears local climbers take less gear and so that is why the pitches seem short.

It was interesting to note that the only good placements on Dierdre was in old pin scars.

We climbed it on the weekday and saw no one else!
By Ryan Lynne
Jun 1, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I highly recommend linking P3 and P4 for an unforgettable monster 75 meter pitch. You will most likely want double up on the cams and you will have too simul climb for a few meters.

Just some notes on how long the link ups are as the route description is a bit off:

P1 & P2: ~65 meters
P3: ~40 meters
P4: ~35 meters
P5 & P6: ~75 meters
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 8, 2016

Though the route is on the easy side of 5.8, the opening 5.7 friction slab runouts can surprise those new to friction slab. Also, be sure to follow the description and traverse down and left in the 2nd half of P1 (to avoid 5.9 slab).
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 10, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Before climbing this route I thought the comments regarding the soft ratings were a bit outlandish, but having done the route I feel like each pitch is one to two number grades off.

Despite the Top 100 status, my personal opinion is if you can confidently climb 5.9 then avoid the crowds, climb Snake, and don't worry about missing Diedre. I thought Snake was a significantly better route (minus the start and finish) that gave you similar climbing but with each pitch having a distinct character. That said, I don't see Snake as the next step from Diedre. I remember being happy that 5.9 wasn't my lead limit on the crux pitch of Snake.

If doing Diedre and not comfortable running things out, TCUs or C3s would not go unappreciated on the last few pitches.
By Sketty
Sep 1, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Got on it because of all the hype, felt that it was just "good", not great. I don't climb on a lot of granite and definitely found the run-outs to be pretty intimidating. I was talking with another party from the Midwest region at the base of p3 who was also pretty spooked - I think it's easy to dismiss a 40ft granite runout if you regularly climb on granite, but my girlfriend saw the easy rating and brought her too-large "all day" shoes and was slipping quite a bit when the route came into the sun. A good pair of slab shoes (and some slab skills) would definitely make this a lot more enjoyable. Having said that, I'm glad I did it and spent a good chunk of the rest of the trip seeking out slabs after discovering my utter lack of slab technique.

Red & Green Black Diamond C3s were both really nice to have (both were basically the sum of my pro on the final pitch along with a pink tri-cam), as were off-set cams. Definitely take a #2 to protect the last move - it felt a lot harder than 5.8 after baking in the sun for hours while being stuck & dehydrated behind all the other parties.
By Josh A
From: vancouver, british columbia
Oct 3, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Tried it after a night of rain while it was still wet. Don't recommend that. Wet slab was of course precarious.. laybacking still worked decently.. but overall not ideal.

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