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Diedra UBSA 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: percious on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Full route view with rough line of the route. The ...


This über-classic climbs the south face of the Peñon D'Ifach direct before veering off left to finish. A series of dihedrals and some polished face climbing leads to a pinnacle before launching through the crux, making a short rappel, and finishing in a polished, but stellar overhanging dihedral. Sparingly protected by bolts, you may decide to bring some extra gear, but I found it hard to place and somewhat unreliable in the bullet-proof polished glass limestone.
Here is a description of the route by pitches:

1) Angle up and right to a bolted belay below a dihedral. (4th)
2) Climb the first dihedral to a belay in a cave. (5+)
3) Face climb through the naturally cemented-on holds (stellar but a bit runout) Back to the dihedral to a large belay ledge with a bush. (6a)
4) Climb up through the cracks to the right and back into an ugly dihedral, then belay at the top of a chockstone. (5)
5) (6a variation) Face climb directly through wonderful, but polished heucoes through a small cave and around two more to a large cave. At the large cave, head left to find the belays and ultimately the rappel anchors.
6) Make a short (10m) rappel to a ledge and head to the left side of the ledge to a bolted belay.
7) Traverse left to a dihedral, up through a bush and left to anchors (4+)
8) Finish on the final dihedral with an overhang to anchors at the top. (5)
9) Scramble to the summit. (4th)


Head left up the ramp from the end of the tourist path. You will see a large dihedral above, head left some more, to the base of Costa Blanca. From here the route starts right, after a ramp.


Bolted, but sparingly. A few cams are useful to place intermediately. Mid-sized will serve you well. Expect some run-outs even if you bring some gear.

Photos of Diedra UBSA Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Nelson arriving at the lower-off point afte...
Jeremy Nelson arriving at the lower-off point afte...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from P3 belay.
View from P3 belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kristin Knudson climbs to the P3 belay of Diedra U...
Kristin Knudson climbs to the P3 belay of Diedra U...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Perkins at the P5 Belay.
Chris Perkins at the P5 Belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Perkins leads the final technical pitch on D...
BETA PHOTO: Chris Perkins leads the final technical pitch on D...

Comments on Diedra UBSA Add Comment
Show which comments
By Flex
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 5, 2015

The rappel anchors are 2 bolts with rings as of Nov 2014. We found it easiest to lower the leader down to the ledge system and then traverse to the next belay and then the follower doing the same. This requires the second to untie and then pull the rope through the rings after completing the pitch. This seemed easier and safer than trying to negotiate the traverse while on rappel and having to feed out rope to yourself.
By Eric Bluemn
From: Worcester, MA
Apr 8, 2017

Great route and minimal trad gear required. There was some loose rock and spaced bolts on the first pitch, and I used a yellow alien higher up. Some of the slings on the p6 could use updating as of 3/2017.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of p3
Top of p3

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