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Cheselenflue
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Blauer Käfer 6a+ S 
Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ S 
Flaschengeist S 
Kontinuum 6c+ S 
Meteorit S 
Pulsar 7a S 
Roter Punkt 6c S 
Technoparty S 
Trockener Regen S 
Viadukt S 

Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 2,623
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Oct 19, 2008

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Abseiling - this shot is from the anchor at the en...

Description 

A stellar route, defined by its wildly exposed, crux third pitch.

Pitch 1: 6b, up a steep slab on reasonably good holds.
Pitch 2: 6c+, continues up the slab to its end and then into steeper terrain above on good holds. There is a distinct crux move just above the end of the slabby section.
Pitch 3: 7a+, from a comfortable ledge (anchor shared with the Blauer Kaefer), the route traverses right, onto an overhanging slab of rock that juts out into space. On the slab, the line continues up and to the right. The holds are all there and the moves are fairly straightforward, but it is pumpy as hell, and the exposure is extraordinary.
Pitch 4: 6c+ 1 p.a., vertical, compact rock with very small, sharp holds defines this pitch. The one point of aid is fairly early on, and the difficulty of the pitch comes in the couple of meters that follow, on very thin, very sharp holds, before traversing up and right on somewhat easier ground.
Pitch 5: 6c+, another good pitch, again on vertical sharp rock, slightly less compact and more featured than the previous pitch.

Location 

Pass by the meteorit sector and traverse up and to the right past a giant recess in the wall (there is often a waterfall here). Follow a clear trail up to the base of the rock. The start of the climb is marked in yellow, just a few meters to the right of the Blauer Kaefer route.


With regards to the abseil, take note of the comments to the area!

Protection 

The route is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required.


Photos of Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch three, from above
Pitch three, from above
Rock Climbing Photo: Mathijs K concluding the magnificent third pitch.
Mathijs K concluding the magnificent third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mathijs K powering through the magnificent third p...
Mathijs K powering through the magnificent third p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Exit, pitch three
Exit, pitch three
Rock Climbing Photo: Dani following p3, about to grab the final jug
Dani following p3, about to grab the final jug
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of p4
Start of p4
Rock Climbing Photo: Money shot of p3
Money shot of p3
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two, heading into the crux.
Pitch two, heading into the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one, pulling up through the crux.
Pitch one, pulling up through the crux.

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