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Didn't Make the Team 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 9, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The route.


This route starts up a chossy, flaring squeeze, continues with some fun moves around a horn, and finishes with juggy climbing on (relatively) good rock.


On the left (west) side of the formation in the Training Camp that is called the Penguin. It's the formation that has Covey Leader to Raven and Rookie of the Year/An All Star on it. Scramble up some broken rock just left of the formation to the start of the route. There are two belay bolts far to the right that you can belay from.


Here's what I recommend: A #5 Camalot would be perfect for protecting the start (I used a #4 and it was tipped out a little). One #3 Camalot comes after that, followed by one or two .75 (green) Camalots or a green and a purple. I didn't get any gear in after about halfway up the climb but take some micro cams or nuts and you can probably get something in. There are two bolts with chains at the top that are part of another route. It's best to belay your second up. The chains aren't in the ideal place for toproping.

A helmet for the climber and the belayer is definitely recommended, as is being familiar with the area's rock so that you know which holds to pull hard on and on which ones to pull lightly.

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 9, 2009

I gave this route a bomb because I think that most people should probably avoid it. If you like chossy trad climbing (you know who you are, sickos), then it's worth climbing. The moves are pretty fun and after the first 20 feet or so, the rock is pretty good.

This route is dedicated to Darren <3
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 10, 2009

The best part of doing this route was when we realized that DK would have to do it :)!
One fun section exiting the chimney and turning the roof/corner to the upper slab.
There are good pro options here and there so keep your eyes out.

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