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YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Jean de Lataillade, 1991
Page Views: 2,199
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006

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Working the moves at the third bolt. Right hand i...


This stellar route is the ultimate Cochiti test piece. Established by French strong man Jean Delataillade in 1991, this route has not seen a second ascent, and probably hasn't been attempted in at least 10 years.

Originally graded 5.13c, this route might be even harder. It's only 30 feet long, but it's all business from the moment you leave the ground. It's similar in style and difficulty to Child of Light at Enchanted Tower, but much more tweaky and techy (though not as shouldery). There's a large hole at the 2nd bolt that might qualify as a rest, but otherwise this is a mad dash for the chains.

You will need a great deal of finger strength, but it's not as tweaky as you might think. There are two mono moves, both for the right hand. However, you will likely find yourself limited more by ring-finger strength.

This is easily the steepest route at Cochiti, with an exciting, dynamic bulge crux.


At the very top of the canyon on the South side. This is the first route you come to if you use the "new" approach beta.


4 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor. Recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt. Stick clipping the first bolt is mandatory. Clipping the 4th bolt on lead is tricky.

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Rock Climbing Photo: More posing at the 3rd bolt.  The right hand is in...
More posing at the 3rd bolt. The right hand is in...

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By Geoff Sluyter
Dec 28, 2006
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Thanks for the great photo! I did the route in 2000 and thought the grade was fair. Eagle Canyon is a beautiful place to climb. I nearly steeped on the biggest rattle snake i have ever seen there!
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 5, 2010

I'll second that comment Geoff!! Of all the years I lived in New Mexico, the only time I almost got tagged was in Eagle Canyon...lots of brush and the snakes like to sun themselves on the trail. Yikes. Well worth watching where you step though, because Eagle Canyon is a beautiful place to climb.

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