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Routes in Eagle Canyon
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Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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E Pluribus Cruxi Unum Pumpus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Jean de Lataillade, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 3,159 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This stellar route is the ultimate Cochiti test piece. Established by French strong man Jean Delataillade in 1991, this route has not seen a second ascent, and probably hasn't been attempted in at least 10 years.
Originally graded 5.13c, this route might be even harder. It's only 30 feet long, but it's all business from the moment you leave the ground. It's similar in style and difficulty to Child of Light at Enchanted Tower, but much more tweaky and techy (though not as shouldery). There's a large hole at the 2nd bolt that might qualify as a rest, but otherwise this is a mad dash for the chains.
You will need a great deal of finger strength, but it's not as tweaky as you might think. There are two mono moves, both for the right hand. However, you will likely find yourself limited more by ring-finger strength.
This is easily the steepest route at Cochiti, with an exciting, dynamic bulge crux.
Originally graded 5.13c, this route might be even harder. It's only 30 feet long, but it's all business from the moment you leave the ground. It's similar in style and difficulty to Child of Light at Enchanted Tower, but much more tweaky and techy (though not as shouldery). There's a large hole at the 2nd bolt that might qualify as a rest, but otherwise this is a mad dash for the chains.
You will need a great deal of finger strength, but it's not as tweaky as you might think. There are two mono moves, both for the right hand. However, you will likely find yourself limited more by ring-finger strength.
This is easily the steepest route at Cochiti, with an exciting, dynamic bulge crux.
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