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South Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby's Butt T 
Climb with no Beginning T 
Daley's Direct T 
Diddly T 
Fitschen's Folly T 
Orange Peel T 
Pas de Deux T 
Pas de Deux, Original Route T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Powell and Bob Kamps, January 1967
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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This full-pitch slab route has a short crux section, and then just one other stretch that’s harder than 5.8. The crux is at the third bolt.


5 bolts, fixed pin, plus gear for the belay

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By Chad F
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 22, 2010

guidebook says 6, we found 4 plus one with a missing hanger
By Bob Gaines
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One fixed pin at the start, then I counted 5 bolts, plus 2 off-route bolts (missing hangers) slightly off-route to the left.

Anchor is 2 to 3 inch gear.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Oct 22, 2012

Used several medium cams, a big nut, and nut wires on the bolt with no hangar. Clipped one bolt on the route to the right. There's an unusable rap anchor up left from this route, with the bolts half pulled out.
By dnaiscool
Mar 29, 2015

The two-bolt route to the right of this is "Lizard's Leap" and is 5.9, and is worthy. The route to the right of That is "Fitchen's Folly" and is 5.7 and is also worthy...both are 1.5 stars out of four. If you are over here with a bunch of beginners, toss ropes on these to get more climbers on the rock. Lizard's Leap was my first 5.9 "follow," and I fell when I inverted a fingernail prying down i=on one of the edges I'd latched...blood everywhere...taught me a lesson about trimming the nails. I was 15, following Chuck Wilts..he laughed..said he knew what "that" felt like.

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