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Dickey Ledge

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Dickey Ledge Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.9179, -71.5871 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,232
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 26, 2011
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The Welch Dicky loop trail is an extremely popular hiking trail and for good reason. The rocky peaks and many open granite slabs provide panoramic views along the length of the hike. About one mile up the Dickey trail is a quarter mile long rambling ledge with a fun variety of slabs and some really great cracks as well. The cliff is east facing and gets a lot of sun, so a cool day is best. The granite is nearly perfect and the location is spectacular. With a small rack and some quickdraws one can spend an enjoyable day here cragging below the hikers.

Getting There 

Take Exit 28 off I 93 and head east on route 49 towards Waterville Valley. After about 5 miles turn left onto Upper Mad River Rd then turn right onto Osiris Rd. follow the hikers signs to the parking lot.

WMNF Fee Area!

There are two ways to reach the base of cliff. Start hiking up the Dickey, the left side of the loop trail, then after about a mile and just before reaching the main ledge head right down into the woods. The first area you will come to is the South America Wall. Alternatively a couple of hundred feet after stepping onto the top of the ledge there is an eye bolt anchor next to a small flake that can be used to rap down to The Beach, it is a little difficult to find at first but it is there.

Climbing Season

For the WM: Waterville Valley area.

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

48 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dickey Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dickey Ledge:
Dead Toe   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   The Beach
Goosebumps   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Half Stack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   The Dark Side
Lurking Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dark Side
Highway Star   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach
Dark Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dark Side
Lurking in the Bushes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   The Dark Side
Slab Therapy   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Beach
Subversive Behavior   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   The Ocean
Hermits Hideout   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Dark Side
Boat Ramp   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Ocean
The Stack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80'   The Dark Side
Fern Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   South America Wall
Brain Cramp   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 100'   The Ocean
The Horcrux   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South America Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dickey Ledge

Featured Route For Dickey Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Resident Evil and the hand crack variation.

Resident Evil 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  New Hampshire : WM: Waterville Valley : ... : The Dark Side
A must do route. Cracks, a chimney and some thin face climbing to anchor. Start below and right of the giant blocks and climb past 2 bolts into the chimney. Exit right and pumpy climbing leads past bolts and horizontal cracks to a cresendo finish. A variation is to climb right before the chimney to a hand crack that rejoins the regular route. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Dickey Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dickey Ledge
Dickey Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Some Fungi
Some Fungi
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick getting horizontal.
Nick getting horizontal.
Rock Climbing Photo: South America Flake 5.11
South America Flake 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Hansche gets the FA. This boulder plowed a pat...
Lee Hansche gets the FA. This boulder plowed a pat...
Rock Climbing Photo: A BIG boulder cut loose from the trail on the way ...
A BIG boulder cut loose from the trail on the way ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ahh
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview
BETA PHOTO: Overview

Comments on Dickey Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Bend
Feb 5, 2014
Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom
By jim.dangle
Nov 9, 2014
A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.

Also, the traverse in across the base of the cliff was not hard once you find the good climber's path.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 6, 2017
I had a great time with Tom Bowker today as he gave me the grand tour of the cliff. I have spent a lot of time at Dickey but he has a unique perspective being the primary developer and most consistent visitor for the past 30 years! Thanks Tom for all the fantastic routes and sharing Dickie's rich history with me!

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