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Dick to the Rescue  T 
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Picnic Table  T 
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Sir Bors Dream  T 
Sir Hector's Highway T 
Table Talk  T 

Dick to the Rescue  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dick to the Rescue
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The "Dick to the Rescue"/"Table Tal...

Description 

Dick to the Rescue 5.10c or 5.9 (Plus the usual 5.5 PG/R)

NOTE: While at first glance the rock looks clean, “micro lichen” tends to grow, and the rock seems "grainy", so a wire brush may be in order if the climb hasn't been done in a while. According to Webster, the FA party did a “serious …effort to clean lichen.”

P1 – [See "START" in 'location' section] After climbing to the shallow ledge, step left and climb DIRECTLY over and past 3 bolts, then move right-ish to the double bolt anchor shared by “Dick” and Table Talk. 100 ft, 5.10c.
ALTERNATE P1 - Climb the rock about 3 to 4 ft left of the bolts, reaching over to clip them. 100 ft 5.9

P2 – A beautiful slab pitch and only 5.9! As the song says: "Get here if you can!" ...(and there are several ways to get to the dbl bolt anchor at the start of the pitch that don't require 5.10c climbing.)

From the dbl bolt anchor move left and climb up, passing a perfect hole for a #1 (Red) Camalot, then up into a thin, shallow corner for a few moves to a bolt (crux above), then past 2 more bolts, reaching a small pine tree. 100 feet, 5.9 with a fixed tree-and-bolt anchor, or combine with P3.

"P3" - Climb easily out to the left and up another 65 feet to the "Bugs" Rap Anchor tree at the top of the cliff. 60-65 ft, 5.0 ....but be careful of sand and dirt on the last steps.

Location 

START About 15-20 feet right of Hornet. The start used to be at a log leaning against the cliff, but this has rotted away to almost nothing. The start can still be made here just right of the remnant of the log ( 5.9 – 5.10 ??) but most folk might prefer to scramble up the first moves of Hornet (5.7 PG/R) or Picnic Table (5.4) to reach the tiny flake that marks the move to clip the first bolt. [See photo of Hornet and "Dick" in the "Bugs" write-up/]

Protection 

Draws for bolts; Red (#1) Camalot for 2nd pitch


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