REI Community
Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind luck S 
Blindsided S 
Dick and Jeanie S 
Glass Balls S 
Green Lantern, The S 
Hecks Arete T 
John's Dihedral T 
Kevin's Dihedral T,TR 
Mercy F**k S 
One Hit Wonder S 
Self Mutilation S 
Spider Chimney T 
Unknown, see below T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dick and Jeanie 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Kutcher 1997
Page Views: 1,964
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jay on Dick and Jeanne, July 2005.


Locate the next bolted route right of Self Mutilation. The climb is identified by thin cracks up a steep wall.

Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin, Dick and Jeanie features a steep start and a bouldery crux. The climbing remains asthetic despite its short height. A popular project route, given its straightforward moves and beautiful position.



Photos of Dick and Jeanie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route follows two cracks up to mini roof
BETA PHOTO: Route follows two cracks up to mini roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Butt shot of Jay leading, July 2005.  Thanks Rhoad...
Butt shot of Jay leading, July 2005. Thanks Rhoad...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the parallel cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the parallel cracks.

Comments on Dick and Jeanie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 30, 2006

I noticed there is a bolt above the anchor...anyone have any info on the upper section? Are there more bolts, mixed pro, etc?
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 4, 2006


I believe the guys who put these up came back and lowered the anchors on several of these routes. I think because the rock is a little more sugary up top.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This route is highly temperature and humidity dependent. First time I was on it a few years ago it was about 90F with high humidity, and we thought it was mid-5.12 for sure, very hard crux and the crimp out right was completely useless to make the crux move. Two weeks later, 20 degrees cooler and breezy, and it felt 11b. Fun route.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route up some amazing features. Felt like a mid 5.12 until I figured out the beta. The bottom is super powerful to a technical crux. Bolts are place terribly. Sketchy to clip the second bolt.
By Dylan B.
May 5, 2015

"Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin."

Really? A two-star route? How about the four-star Red Recollection at Qual Wall? Or the three-star Now or Never? Or the lovely, long Schizophrenia? Arguably this is the best bolted 5.11 at Neceedah, but not in Wisconsin.

I liked this climb, but the breathless hyperbole is over the top.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About