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Diary of a Dope Fiend 
Sex Magician 
Sex Magician Sit Start 

Diary of a Dope Fiend 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Scott Cosgrove
Page Views: 1,753
Submitted By: Will S on Jan 30, 2012

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Milking that sweet double knee bar rest Photo cre...


This problem is a super classic, and perhaps the best problem of its grade in Joshua Tree. Essentially Caveman's big, secluded brother. Climb the sustained roof on jams, edges and heel hooks with a dynamic finish on sloper slapping. Some trickery allows you to completely recover before launching into the final sequence. The plastic-trained climber who loves gymnastic moves on relatively large holds will adore this one.


At the far right side of Alister's Cave is a chalked jug and overhead handjam slot. Sit start and work through the roof ending at obvious jugs in a break just above the dismal finishing slopers.


A single pad will suffice, but have a spotter who can drag it as you climb. If you're solo and at your limit two pads would be nice.

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By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 18, 2012
By Scott Cosgrove
Sep 17, 2013
rating: V8-9 7B+

It's so funny to read Will's post, as It was so chossey when I was first trying it, that my friends thought me crazy.

I did it to the last move, and then a guy named Paul? did the final boulder problem, after that it was all one problem.

I think I may have link it first but it was a long time ago and it could have been anyone of us.

I'm glad to hear it's cleaning up and the rock that remains is solid, I heard Fred N did a boulder problem to the left of the DF, anyone know?
Sep 18, 2013

I put up a little diddy left of DF - called it Perpetual Darkness!
Sep 18, 2013

Btw, great find! One of the best in all of JT bouldering. For years I heard rumors of this roof back in the day - "Cosgrove's Roof" as it was known, almost mythical in status! When I finally found it I was not disappointed!

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