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Diarrhea Dome - South Face

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Diarrhea Dome - South Face Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2009
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DE leading the second (crux) pitch.

Description 

The South Face of Diarrhea Dome is a large face which despite it's size is mostly hidden from view by other formations in front of it. Home to a handful of somewhat obscure routes, which see far less traffic than the popular Grotto routes nearby, you'll likely have the place to yourself on routes like Truly Snooty Furniture (5.10a) a face to corner system, The Big Brown Eye (5.11a) cracks to face which pass a curiously shaped dark hole in the rock, Svapada (5.11b) a technical face and The Manly Dike (5.12a) which climbs an impressive dike system which crosses the face left to right.

Getting There 

Standard Wonderland approach past Freak Brothers Dome and stay in the main portion of the wash until Diarrhea Dome's south face comes into view; the distinctive Owl Pinnacle is a helpful landmark. When brush blocks the wash head east in another wash which leads to an apparent impasse (see Photo) which is bypassed by tunneling under or going left up and over slabs which leads into another wash heading north. When possible follow slabs on the right side of the wash up and over a small hill which will lead to the base of the dome. Plan on 45 minutes to 1 hour for the approach if all goes well.

Climbing Season

For the Diarrhea Dome area.

Weather station 7.6 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Diarrhea Dome - South Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Manly...isn't it....

The Manly Dike 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Diarrhea Dome - South Face
The big, obvious quartz dike. Gaining the dike is 5.12, but easily aided (A0) on less-than-inspiring bolts. The rest of the climb (5.11) is a continuous, excruciating test of balance. Just as mental for the follower as the leader. Top out on Big Brown Eye or rap....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Diarrhea Dome - South Face Add Comment
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By fubar
From: Babylon
Mar 3, 2009
Just a note on The Manly Dike: though well-bolted for Joshua Tree standards, a few of these bolts really are in need of replacement, particularly the first one. Granted, this adds an additional mental aspect to the route (which is pretty damn mental already!), but you could get pretty messed up if you pulled even one, and it's a long way out to hobble.

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