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Diaphoretic Spasms 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 375'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Bysma, Jim Cunningham (Sept, '85)
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 9, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Diaphoretic Spasms topo

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a one-star slab climb on the right end of the Pennyroyal Arches. It climbs up the blank low-angle face to the left of the White Slab route (a 5.4 up the prominent left facing arching corner). The few difficult sections on the climb are fairly well protected, but expect runouts on 5.6 and easier terrain.

Pitch 1 heads straight up the low angle slab to a high first bolt. A horizontal crack provides more pro (either .5-.75" or a 3" cam works good) and then a second bolt protects the steeper 5.7/5.8 terrain before the anchor.

Pitch 2 has the crux right off the anchor but it felt a little light for 5.9. After smearing up and left to the first bolt the angle lessens and the rest of the pitch is a cruise. This pitch is supposed to have 3 bolts but I must have missed one. In any case there's good natural gear on the upper half of the pitch and then a 5.6 runout to the anchor.

Pitch 3 climbs straight up off the belay past one bolt and then more runout easy friction to the big ledge.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes. It's too bad the anchors are not in different locations because this climb would be better if you could do it in 2 long pitches and then descend with 2 long rappels.

Protection 

Pro to 1" and a handful of draws.


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