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Castle Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
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Bellissimo S 
Big Time S 
Big Time Direct S 
Carpe Spot S 
Castle Keep S 
Corrin's Crack T 
Diamond in the Rough T 
High Road T,S 
High Times  T 
Imagine Wagons T 
Little Time S 
No Pack Crack T 
Oh My Gosh S 
Pollo Negro S 
Poster Chicken T 
Tiny Time T 
Wedding Gift T 

Diamond in the Rough 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,666
Submitted By: Louis Eubank on Nov 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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The pitch.

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


A really fun variation on Big Time. Just after the start of the third pitch on Big Time, traverse right to the obvious left facing crack. Skip clipping the first couple bolts on the 3rd pitch of Big Time or you'll pick up some heinous rope drag.

Word of caution for night climbing: Bats live in the crack, and if you shine your headlamp in at oh, say 2am, you might scream like a little girl as they fly out 2 inches from your face.

After the crack ends, finish by topping out on the 4th (final) pitch on Big Time, definitely need a 60m rope.


Rap Big Time.


Gear to #2 Camalot. I placed 6 pieces and completely sewed it up.

Photos of Diamond in the Rough Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The finishing moves of the sweet corner of Diamond...
BETA PHOTO: The finishing moves of the sweet corner of Diamond...

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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Dec 2, 2008

I believe its "Diamond" in the Rough.

Guidebook has it at 5.10a. Harder?
By Drew Daly
From: Ketchum, Idaho
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Felt more like 5.9 compared to other City 10a climbs. Fun, but a little dirty and mossy.
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Feb 13, 2012

Great climb, didn't use anything larger than a #1 camalot. Feels soft compared to most 10s around.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun pitch and a great link with Big Time. Felt 5.9 to me. Be aware that there was a beehive in the crack as a few days ago but it didn't get in the way if climbing the pitch.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely no harder than 5.10a but well worth the effort if you're a couple pitches up Big Time. Crack is a bit dirty and has a nice little fern growing in it. Good crack technique and stemming keep this reasonable.

Bring a #.3 or something fairly small to protect the opening move. I had to do it unprotected and it made the climb a little spicy. You can stuff as many #.75s and #1s in this route as you can carry. I remember bringing at least one #2 as well. Guidebook says pro to 3.5 inches but I don't think there's a single spot for a #3.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This felt not nearly as strenuous or sustained as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice in the City. A soft 5.10a, but harder than the 5.9s we did in the area. Very reasonable.

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