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Diamonds Aren't Forever  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2004, David Lent, Nick Gully
Page Views: 1,203
Submitted By: Ethan Thompson on May 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Diamonds arent forever


Strenuous, undercling, slab climbing. This is a unique route that looks easier than it is.

Start on good holds next to a dead tree. Pull over the starting bulge and scramble up low angle slab to the first bolt. Follow the maze of downward facing holds up the slightly off-vertical slab.

Well bolted and good fun although it looks like a hold or two has broken off and a few more could be poised to pop. Belayer be warned.


The leftmost bolted line.


Bolts to fixed anchors

Photos of Diamonds Aren't Forever Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Harder than it looks
Harder than it looks
Rock Climbing Photo: pickin away at Diamonds Aren't Forever
pickin away at Diamonds Aren't Forever
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhiannon about to head into the weirdness
Rhiannon about to head into the weirdness
Rock Climbing Photo: Staring up at all the underclings
Staring up at all the underclings

Comments on Diamonds Aren't Forever Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Perhaps this is just me, but if you restrict yourself to the line of bolts, this feels like mid 5.11. If you climb to the right of the bolts (i.e., cheat by using some holds from Bee Hold, the neighboring route), it feels like the stated grade 5.10c.

I've never been able to climb this "direct" and have always cheated out right. Anyone else find this to be the case?
By Tim Dufrane
Jul 21, 2012

Jim, I'd have to agree with you on that. Felt stout for a 5.10c, I'd push it to a 5.11. Fell off a few times, but I made it up without using anything from Bee Hold. Lots of compression moves and laybacks while on raw fingertips. But for the difficulty, what a seriously fun and well protected route. The two cruxes are extremely well protected (waist level falls).
By B L
From: Montréal, Québec
Dec 13, 2015

Which part of the route did experience rockfall causing it to be harder than the grade causing many to use the neighboring route instead as stated in the new guidebook?
By Jim Lawyer
Dec 14, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bernard: The crux section is in the middle, and it's definitely easier (and tempting) to move right to Bee Hold. Flakes have definitely broken off, but it is speculation whether this made the route harder. Perhaps it was always a sandbag?

I have since climbed it directly and I think 11a or 11b is a fair grade.

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