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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: D. Jones, D. Serl, 1987
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jul 14, 2008

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The first pitch isn't anything to write home about, but it gets you to the second, which is a good and varied right-facing slab and thin-fingers affair.

P1. Climb the jagged crack, cleaning with a nut tool will probably be needed.

P2. Pull around the bulge to the right and follow the crack until you reach Broadway Ledge. The climbing is fairly straightforward and sustained at 5.9 with good protection until you reach a obvious crux section that will require good slab footwork as your pro moves below your feet. The good news is that the crux ends with a good hold and good protection opportunities.


There is a region of low-angle slabs below Broadway Ledge that you reach from routes such as St. Vitus Dance and Snake. Near the right side of this area is the jagged crack of Pitch 1 that leads to ledge about forty feet up that had a foot diameter pine tree and some large blocks above.

Alternatively, continue Edge Of Anxiety until it joins near the start of P2.


Lots of small cams and wires.

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