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Jun 26, 2012
I am thinking of heading up there the weekend of the 7-8. Anyone been up there? How is the North Chimney conditions wise? Never done the Chasm View raps, how are they? Any pictures of current conditions? Thanks everyone! Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
90 points
Jun 26, 2012
The north chimney is in standard conditions, a nut tool and tennis shoes will get you onto the rock. Broadway is almost completely snow free. Most routes look dry.The cat is outta the bag. It's diamond season.

I would advise against the chasm view rap approach, unless you have a haul bag or are bivying on Broadway. It's way more work to hike all the way up to chasm view. However, the raps are straightforward, but be careful, as there is a lot of loose rock on broadway, and parties in the north chimney can be in the fall line.

Have fun!
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
5 points
Jun 26, 2012
The following conditions were observed by CMS guide Rainbow Weinstock on Friday, 6/22:

We left the trailhead at 1AM and were at Mill Glacier under the North Chimney at 4AM. There was a significant amount of snow extending well into the boulderfields where people bivy, though there are still plenty of dry spots to bivy. Even though it was a very warm day, we found that at 4AM the snow was still very firm. With stiff approach shoes we were only able to make minimal penetration attempting to kick steps up to the North Chimney. We did not bring crampons or an ice axe with us so we resorted to chopping steps with sharp rocks and using a nut tool in the other hand for stability. Covering all the terrain up to the North Chimney this was very slow, taxing technique, but secure. *I would recommend crampons and possibly an ice axe (otherwise grabbing a sharp rock.)*

We went up the slabs to the left of the bottom of the north chimney and found that rock to be dry. As we continued up the North Chimney we encountered quite a few firm snow patches that we travelled across. I was appreciative of being in approach shoes in the North Chimney, so I could feel good going back and forth from snow to rock. Crampons would not have changes things much there. In the higher parts of the North Chimney there is a significant amount of snow in the gully proper, which forced us to a clean, 5.5, left facing corner system 30' right of the gully. There is snow in the last couple hundred feet of the chimney, where the gully steepens and rock quality deteriorates. This led us into terrain I have always used, which is steeper and cleaner 5.6/5.7 corners and slabs 50-100' right of the gully which bring you up to Broadway.

I've attached a couple of images of Broadway. There is medium sized snowpatch below and to the left of the Casual Route, which one can readily walk around. Of greater note is the significant snowpatch on the far left hand side of this section of Broadway, under the Obelisk - it wouldn't effect travel for any of the climbing, but *it provides a significant flow of water in the afternoon to fill up after a climb. *We were there on a very warm day, with highs in the upper 90s in Boulder and highs in the upper 60's at the NOAA Long's Peak point forecast at 13,000, but it was flowing profusely at 12PM. Hopefully it will be there for at least a couple more weeks.

As for the climbing itself, it's in excellent, dry conditions. We climbed Pevertical Sanctuary, and found dry rock all the way to the D7 raps and T-shirt conditions till noon. We then climbed the Casual Route route in the afternoon and although it was cool enough to warrant insulating layers in the upper pitches, the pitches were quite dry. There is a large block of snow on a large, sloping ledge on top of the first corner pitch beyond the traverse. It had big steps in it that allowed us to easily make a few steps on it in rock shoes, but didn't effect our travel much.

The D7 raps and Crack of Delight raps are all in good shape.


Rock Climbing Photo: Broadway.

The following photos were taken by CMS guide Luke Terstrip on Saturday, 6/23 from the Camel Descent. If you were on the wall on Saturday morning, feel free to contact us - we probably have pictures of you.

Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond.
The Diamond.

Rock Climbing Photo: East Face of Long's.
East Face of Long's.

Rock Climbing Photo: The North Chimney
The North Chimney

Rock Climbing Photo: The North Face.
The North Face.

Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers.
Unknown climbers.

Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers.
Unknown climbers.

Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers.
Unknown climbers.

Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers.
Unknown climbers.

Rock Climbing Photo: Flying Buttress.
Flying Buttress.

Rock Climbing Photo: The Notch.
The Notch.

Rock Climbing Photo: The Loft.
The Loft.

Rock Climbing Photo: Lamb's Slide.
Lamb's Slide.
Colorado Mountain School
Joined Sep 8, 2007
10 points
Jun 26, 2012
Sweet! thanks for the update and pics CMS sstrauss
From Denver
Joined Sep 23, 2009
10 points
Jun 27, 2012
sstrauss wrote:
Sweet! thanks for the update and pics CMS

+1 Thanks guys!
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
90 points
Jun 27, 2012
thanks for the photo... (the d7 one)

my blue hawaiian shirt really sticks out!
Joined Mar 6, 2006
930 points
Jul 3, 2012
As of 7/2/2012, Broadway is a great place to bivy. The snow patch is still providing plenty of water and the standard bivy sites are snow free.

The snow patch should last at least another week. It will probably be there longer, but I can's say for sure.

It was nice to see how litter free it is up there. Lets keep it that way.
T Bauck
Joined Jul 21, 2008
0 points
Jul 6, 2012
rainy weekend, going to be tough up there for a few days and hopefully the monsoon doesn't come in too early this summer or you missed the prime season...June of 2012. Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,031 points
Jul 9, 2012
Great pictures, thanks for the report Rainbow!

I'm having trouble finding out what ropes are recommended to take for routes on the Diamond. I'd check a guidebook, but we won't have one till we arrive state-side from the UK in a couple of weeks. Will 2x 50m half-ropes be alright?
From Bath, England
Joined Jul 9, 2012
0 points

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