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Chewey the Beaver S 
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Diamond in the Tuff S 
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Look Out Below S 
Shadow Plan S,TR 

Diamond in the Tuff 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Erik Wolfe/Tom Grundy/Weston Lippia
Season: Fall/Winter/Spring
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Diamond in the Tuff topo

Description 

Pitch 1 (65' - 5.10c): Tricky rounded holds on a steep wall lead to a rest at "The Duck Bill", then past diminishing holds to the arete. The steepness eases to a mantle below the anchors.

Pitch 2 (75'- 5.11a): Easy terrain for 45 feet brings one to a steep headwall. Step onto the face, clip the crux bolt and do some fancy dancing to surmount the bulge (height dependent). Traverse right and finish up on a fun and exposed arete.

There is an amazing ledge on the arete at the top (just below the second pitch anchors), so I put a bolt in to use the anchors as a re-direct for belaying the second up. Bring a long sling or daisy if you want to chill on the ledge.

Edit: I should also mention that I get cell-phone reception from the ledge on the second pitch. Pretty rare for the gorge.

Location 

After the river crossing, pass the big boulder then cut back left on a trail heading for the toe of a buttress just upstream from the crossing. At the toe, switch back right and look for stone steps, ramp and terracing taking you back left and to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, Mussy's
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, Mussy's


Photos of Diamond in the Tuff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston on the upper arete.
Weston on the upper arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom hitting the "jug" after the crux.
Tom hitting the "jug" after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston pulling the crux
Weston pulling the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom starting up pitch 2 on the 2nd ascent.
Tom starting up pitch 2 on the 2nd ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston leading the first pitch.
Weston leading the first pitch.

Comments on Diamond in the Tuff Add Comment
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By Marek Hajek
From: Reno, NV
Apr 24, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is duplicated in the Diamond Face section, so, I am duplicating my comments.

We did the 2 pitches in one go with an 80m rope. However, on lowering to the ground, I ended up 2-3m short. My belayer tied in, cleaned the pitch(es) and lowered all the way to the ground. It's a rope stretcher with an 80m rope. The rope drag was ok when doing as 1 pitch, but I did skip a few very easy to skip bolts on second pitch.
P1: 10c, slopey holds
P2: 11a, 1 move wonder, climbing was pleasant.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 25, 2017

Thanks for the feed-back - I will probably try and re-configure the anchor set-up so an 80-meter rope will reach the ground while leading.

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