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Diamond in the Rough 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: J.Foley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Jfoley on Nov 13, 2008

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Matt Samet starts up Diamond In The Rough. FoleyPh...


The first half of this route climbs up mediocre 5.11 edges. Some hollow rock in the middle gives up a rest and gets you to the headwall. The headwall section has big pumpy moves with some big holds on steep bullet rock. Pumpy dynamic and FUN! For full grade value traverse left to second anchor slightly higher and left.


Start about 20 ft left of reclamation on a 10ft wide buttress leading to a ledge 15 ft up. Look for a lightning bolt crack variation to the lower section on the right.


15 bolts and anchor

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By Jfoley
May 28, 2009

The crux on this route seems to be finger size dependent. If your mits are small and thin it may feel a bit easier for you. If you have sausage link fingers it may be harder. Originally graded 5.12c to first anchor and 13a to second anchor slightly higher and to the left.

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