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Diamond Fork Arch 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Matt Waters
Page Views: 2,175
Submitted By: Moto on Sep 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Diamond Fork Arch

Description 

(AKA: Diamond Fork Arch) Grit sandstone, a bit loose. Its in need of some climbing love, going for the last bolt would be the crux. Its a gnarly climb and its way out of the Wasatch Range ordinary. Your in for a treat climbing next to the Diamond Fork Arch!

Location 

As you pull into the Red Ledges parking lot walk to the far east end of parking lot and look to the north east and there is an arch just right infront of you 40 ft. The climb is just to the left of the Diamond Fork Arch.

Protection 

Approx 6-8 bolts then chains.


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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Aug 21, 2012

I've avoided this route since it is equipped with 3/8" stud bolts in super-soft sandstone. Climb at your own risk.

Rock Climbing Photo: 3/8" stud bolts in soft sandstone?
3/8" stud bolts in soft sandstone?
By Tyler McBabe
From: SpanishFork, UT
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is a sweet route! It starts off smooth and easy and gets harder in an instant. So if you're going to climb it, just anticipate a hard last half, considerably harder than the first half.
By Austin Farnworth
From: mapleton utah
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Way harder than 10a
By SamFelch
Apr 6, 2014

hi there, i was wondering if there are any other established routes in this location other than the two that are listed on MP?
By Jeremy Mon
Apr 22, 2014

Hey Sam. I was just up there last weekend. I still only see the two sport routes. But, someone has put in a handful of Boulder routes. They are to the left when you first come in. At the 30 foot repel area.
By Tyler Taggart
Jul 7, 2015

I would have given this route a 3 star rating because it climbs well, a couple fun hand jams, a ring lock (optional), and some fun crack-ish moves lead to a great overhang flake with a hero move to a blind jug (just below the handle that looks like it was made in a gym). But the bolt line is retarded. As you go up the first few bolts its fine, but right before the overhang there is a bolt WAAAY out to the left, and then another way back to the right that creates unnecessary rope drag and makes it possible to get bad rope burn if you fall in the overhang crux. There is a perfectly good blank area of sandstone to the right that could have been drilled in. If someone added a bolt in the right spot this would climb much better!
By greyson
From: SLC, UT
Mar 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sand bagged 5.10a with dirty holds and choss. Some of the moves were kind of fun but with how dirty the route is it detracts from the quality of the climb. I would never take the time to drive from Salt Lake again. Make sure you have a helmet, my buddy pulled off a flake climbing this route.
By chad zurinskas
May 12, 2016

Anybody wondering if there are more routes in diamond fork, well there are. They are located right at the hot springs parking lot. I bolted these cobble routes 15 or so years ago and only repointed 2 of the 6 routes. far right is 10d and the other is 12c or d. Once off the ground the rock quality gets good, but always be careful. please go climb these routes. They are steep and shady most of the day.

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