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Dial A Muffin S 
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Dial A Muffin 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Chris Henze (1990)
Season: Sunny Until 3pm
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Nov 2, 2015

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Description 

Dial A Muffin is a vertical puzzle with a friable start and anti-climatic finish. The sequence between the first and second bolts is as perplexing as it is difficult. After numerous hesitant attempts and a hilariously misguided attempt to aid climb, I resorted to stick clipping the second bolt to work out a sequence on toprope. The remainder of the route ascends higher quality rock but is nowhere near as challenging. Throughout the route the bolts forced me right while the features drew me left. While a fun puzzle, Dial A Muffin is in the vicinity of great lines; leave it for last.

Location 

Dial A Muffin is the leftmost of three sport routes on the southeast face of Stovepipe. It starts with a high bolt in chossy vertical rock.

Protection 

Approximately 6 bolts to chain anchors. The anchors are shared with Footnotes. Reaching the first bolt requires non-trivial movement over chossy stone. Some, such as myself, might opt for a stick-clip.


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