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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Mike Stutz, Sam Streibert, 8/70
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 18, 2015

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Thrutching through the wide start


obvious diagonal dike that begins on Standard Route too tight awkward chimney variation to tree belay on Standard route. Ascend easy run out dike to belay 40 ft to belay. Finish dike crack to belay right below the extremely inclined diagonal crux crack at two bolts. Climb crux with plausible gear to wide crack to the top. This climb thwarted local climbers for years. The crux unnervingly technical plausible situation protection below moves. This climb easy to go mental by the exposure. its dramatic but too easy besides the crux. Much of the climb is high up on the Mordor Wall section of cliff. Poison Ivy grows on route near to the top easily avoided.


Begin with Standard chimney variation to the tree belay. Walk down from the top.


Bolts and trad gear.

Photos of Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Navigating the second pitch
Nick Navigating the second pitch

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 23, 2015

A nice bit of humor bradley..5.8 plus what ?This is a kinda wild crux, could go a ways if your not careful with gear.

The diagonal dike itself is a great bit of easy, run out climbing with a dramatic rappel off over the Mordor Wall ( 2 ropes)

The Flying Physicist, Bruce Kumphf, fell 160' attempting the f/a rope solo
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jun 24, 2015

Ted Hammond led the crux and about that guide book it did say 8+. Its a technical gem too not think about protection. Soloing has its ups and WTF downs.

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