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(2) Clocktower
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Diagonal 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: southeast facing
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: greg k on Mar 20, 2014

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Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

wonderful crack with stiff kick in the pants just before topping out. glad i taped up for this one; i had the whole farm hanging on that last jam.
guidebook mentions the possibility of linking diagonal with one of the upper pitches: although rope-drag wasn't problematic, the rope-eating cracks at the ledge dissuade any further vertical progress. anchor consists of 3 glue-ins (2011) on top of ledge.

Location 

obvious diagonal crack running the length of lower clocktower

Protection 

standard rack to 2".
Awkwardly positioned 316 steel anchor (2011)

You can also walk off or continue upwards.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is totally incredible. It takes you through all of the coolest features on the Clocktower, and some of the most consistent jamming at the Dong. Easy scrambling to the leftward traverse, some seriously overhanging tufa-like sickness, to a rest where it crosses Wedding Day, into the crux jam long throw to the flake step around. Gotta go back and red-point this beast.

In just 40ish feet this thing packs a punch!

Oh yeah, and double up on gear from 1/2" to 3/4".