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3. Fisherman's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cheetah T,TR 
Cro-Magnon T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Jane T,TR 
Tarzan T 
Topaz T,TR 
Wizard, The T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin Bein & Bob Hall, 1967
Page Views: 3,485
Submitted By: DFrench on Jun 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the route Diagonal (5.8+) and also incl...


This route climbs the obvious, left-leaning, hand crack that begins roughly 20 feet to the left of Cro-Magnon. The crux moves are relatively close to the ground, so good protection is a must if 5.8+ is your limit.


This route starts 20 feet left of Cro-Magnon on the left side of the Fisherman's Wall. It is also possible to add a short second pitch by continuing up either Wild Women in Love (5.10) or Green Route (5.5).


Standard rack. The emphasis is on medium-size cams. Most people use the small tree at the top of the climb for an anchor, but discretion is advised.

Photos of Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trad lead.
Trad lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Custer leading Diagonal, belayed by John.
BETA PHOTO: Dave Custer leading Diagonal, belayed by John.

Comments on Diagonal Add Comment
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By Ryan Curry
Oct 18, 2008

A fun climb that starts steep and moves left with a few funky (and sandy) moves with good gear. A gear anchor will enable you to top-rope it (with directionals). I rapped on the Cro-Mag piton anchor.
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Rack your cams on the left side, since most of the will be placed when you are hanging on a right hand jam.

The start is quite a bit harder than 5.8 due to the rock being so polished by now. Not really a good lead for 5.8 climbers.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Trondheim, Norway
Aug 30, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A very fun, bouldery climb. But calling this 5.8+ is pretty sandbagged. Easily 5.9, and the start moves perhaps even more. Then gets easier and easier, with good holds and jams.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 28, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sorry to hear of the polishing of the opening moves, but I guess it's nice to know the climb is popular!

When the climb was first led, the use of the "+" sign was virtually non-existent (except, of course, for the notorious mountain-grade of "5.9+ / A2").

There is a no-hands rest about 1/3 of the way up the crack, where you can slot the wrists of both hands into a constriction and lean back on "bone", resting both forearms and fingers. Certainly if you miss this "rest" (as Kevin did leading the FA), it's 5.8+ or 5.9 (especially driving and removing pitons). Kevin thought it definitely easier than "Bonnie's Roof" (5.9, Gunks) but harder than "Hans' Puss" (5.7, Gunks), and we gave it a 5.8.

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