|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Kevin Bein & Bob Hall, 1967|
|Submitted By:||DFrench on Jun 1, 2008|
|Comments on Diagonal||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ryan Curry
Oct 18, 2008
|A fun climb that starts steep and moves left with a few funky (and sandy) moves with good gear. A gear anchor will enable you to top-rope it (with directionals). I rapped on the Cro-Mag piton anchor.|
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rack your cams on the left side, since most of the will be placed when you are hanging on a right hand jam.
The start is quite a bit harder than 5.8 due to the rock being so polished by now. Not really a good lead for 5.8 climbers.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Trondheim, Norway
Aug 30, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|A very fun, bouldery climb. But calling this 5.8+ is pretty sandbagged. Easily 5.9, and the start moves perhaps even more. Then gets easier and easier, with good holds and jams.|
By Robert Hall
Oct 28, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry to hear of the polishing of the opening moves, but I guess it's nice to know the climb is popular!
When the climb was first led, the use of the "+" sign was virtually non-existent (except, of course, for the notorious mountain-grade of "5.9+ / A2").
There is a no-hands rest about 1/3 of the way up the crack, where you can slot the wrists of both hands into a constriction and lean back on "bone", resting both forearms and fingers. Certainly if you miss this "rest" (as Kevin did leading the FA), it's 5.8+ or 5.9 (especially driving and removing pitons). Kevin thought it definitely easier than "Bonnie's Roof" (5.9, Gunks) but harder than "Hans' Puss" (5.7, Gunks), and we gave it a 5.8.