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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,156
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Nicole following me on Diagonal...


Climb a somewhat chanenging bouldery start to gain the crack then with hands in the crack and feet mostly on the face make your way up and to the left... Eventually making a mantel move on to the top...
The gear can be a little tricky but its all there once you get past the starting moves...

I think this route is better to lead than TR due to its traversing nature...


A bit left of The Horn(5.9) look for a left leaning crack starting behind a small boulder...


Regular rack, maybe some tri-cams would be nice...

Photos of Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.7 start is no more... It seems that the flak...
BETA PHOTO: The 5.7 start is no more... It seems that the flak...
Rock Climbing Photo: Haily heading up Diagonal... trying to skip the ha...
Haily heading up Diagonal... trying to skip the ha...

Comments on Diagonal Add Comment
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By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The direct start in the crack goes at 5.10. Starting 6' left on the slab is the 5.7 start, although as a lead it's unprotected until you reach the crack.
From: Southington, Connecticut
May 20, 2012

The flake above the slab start is not long for this world. I pulled two cams out of it in a fall. It expanded and the right side cracked. Don't trust it.
By Alcapuke
Jun 6, 2013

I'm pretty sure I felt that flake move on me. The crack is fun but the top out is a bit of a reach if you're only 5'7" like me. Cool spot.
By Russ Keane
Oct 20, 2013

OMG love this climb!!!! What a spicey, dicey, sustained lead!! The bottom is outstanding. It's a balancey, highish boulder problem, with some crazy moves to get over and get your first piece in. Strap on your jock straps boys and girls! Then the climb forces you to keep moving and just plug-and-go, do not stop, try and get to the top.... but Man oh man the top out is dirty and not so obvious. I actually fell on my last piece and lowered down to this little side ledge, and walked around and built the anchor. Tough!

Just like the other climbs up here, add a grade. This thing climbs like an 8.
By Jeremy A
From: NH
Oct 6, 2014

Finally climbed this after years of walking by it. Spicy start for sure. However now the start is definitely 8+. The easy flake 15' off the ground has fallen off. Bring a pad or a good spotter. Hopefully the belayer was standing back when that thing came off. 3'x2' by the looks of it, just glad it did not come off a few weeks back.
By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
Oct 26, 2014

Just a heads up the large flake on the 5.7 has broken off, not sure when this happened.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Oct 29, 2014

Happened about a month ago and definitely feels a little harder than the original grade. I've heard a hold broke about a year ago on the direct variation making it harder than 10a as well. Any insight on it?
By Todd Soto
May 11, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I whipped on this right as I was topping out. I give this climb 5.8 at minimum in its current state and it is definitely R rated.
By Read Januskiewiecz
From: New England
Jun 12, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Climbed it for the first time today so cannot compare to using the flake, but feels a bit harder than 5.7. Pretty interesting getting into the crack full value to the first piece for sure.

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