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Diagonal Dyslexia T 

Diagonal Dyslexia 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: James Garrett, Jared Nielsen, Jared Stevens, Dec 2000
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: jakobi on May 9, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The belay from the summit.

Description 

P1-Climb a bolt protected slab and follow the rightward trending dike past a flake. Belay at the top of the ramp from a two bolt anchor. 5.10-
P2-Climb the dike, clipping 4 bolts and moving back left into the chimney. Follow the easy chimney to a good stance where the weakness starts arcing diagonally right. Build a belay at the stance. 5.10
p3-Follow the weakness which is essentially a huge dike up and right finding good gear placements along the way. At about 35m the dike stops at a big ear-shaped flake. From here, tension traverse out right to a bolt and climb up a few easier moves to a stance and a natural belay or do tenuous moves on the underside of the big ear. The rock is somewhat gritty here.
5.7 AO or 5.11
p4-From the belay climb past two bolts into the right-facing hand crack, climb through gritty yet easy terrain from here and scramble to the summit. There's no bolted anchor on the summit other than the rappel anchors which are on the top of a big perched boulder. There's good gear below the boulder however.

Location 

Locate the arcing weakness and look for the ramp, either scramble up the ramp and belay at the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch one or skirt the base of the ramp and look for the bolted slab.

Descend from rappel anchors on the summit boulder doing three double rope rappels to the ground.

Protection 

Quickdraws, double length runners, a single set of cams and a set of stoppers.


Photos of Diagonal Dyslexia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting out on the third pitch.
Starting out on the third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit rappel.
The summit rappel.

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