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Redemption Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diagon Alley T,TR 
Karkus TR 
Redemption Crack T,TR 
Side Alley T,TR 
Slytherin TR 
Unknown face climb T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Diagon Alley 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: H. Vlass
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Mark LaPierre on Jun 1, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: red line marks route

Description 

The climb starts out with easy and varied holds and foot placements for its first third. The middle section is more thin face climbing, followed by the crux at the top where holds are thin.

Location 

Located on the central face, the climb starts at the base of the left-facing corner and follows up along the obvious crack.

Protection 

There are plenty of options for medium to large protection at the base, but the top has minimal locations for small placements.


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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 1, 2017

Curious about the FA information posted here.... Boston Rocks (1st ed.) has limited information.
By Mark LaPierre
From: spencer, MA
Jun 2, 2017

A friend of mine (who introduced me to this location), myself, friends, and family members have, over the past couple of years, been climbing and working this small but interesting crag. While it is not in anyway expansive, towering, or "epic", it is a nice crag with easy access where you can quickly set some topropes on or do a couple single pitch trad climbs. The rock has clearly been climbed in the past, but as you stated, there is limited to no definitive history for these routes, and we felt it would be nice to present it to the local climbers. As for "FA" information, we are making no claims to being the first to have climbed anything on these faces. We are naming the routes only to provide some form of guidance to those who wish to explore the rock and again are not asserting any true "FA" rights (if such things truly exist). I am sure, from having read just about any thread in here, that someone will be offended, protest, and or just oppose this effort to share some information about a little known rock to others who might enjoy its gifts, but so be it.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 2, 2017

It's a fun little crag for sure.... I had noticed on my last solo TR session that somebody else had been cleaning routes. Did a nice, steep face on the far right a little under 30 feet tall. Amazing holds and movement... cruxy and maybe stiff 5.9.

I talked to some locals about this place a while back, and nobody had any route info. It seems like a place that has seen a lot of TR traffic in years past but not much else.
By Mark LaPierre
From: spencer, MA
Jun 8, 2017

I think the route you are referring to, is one we are call Slytherin, because as you said of the movement up it. I plan to be putting it up soon. Perhaps we could meet some day to share notes and develop consistent information for the site.
By Pablo Huerfano
Jun 8, 2017

@Mark LaPierre: hey, I am local resident in Leominster. I recently learned to climb down in the southeast and mostly sport climb. I am trying to explore the local crags in the area and would love to help you if you are doing any cleaning work around the area.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 13, 2017

The face I am referring too is the nice, clean face/steep slab to the right of the finger crack that somebody recently started cleaning. I actually climbed the line again a few times this week, and it's probably more like 5.8... hard to grade things so early in the season. It has a nice mantle problem to exit onto a ledge then some easy 5th class to gain a gear anchor in a small horizontal. Just wish it was taller... flawless climbing and pretty sustained for the whole length until after the mantel.

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