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Castle Rock - North Side
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Bella Lugosi T 
Belly Dancer T 
Bride of Frankenstein TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Count Dracula T 
Diabetics T 
Diagnostics T 
Ground Finale T 
Half Crack T 
Junction Chimney T 
Love at First Bite T 
Music Box T 
One Point Crack T 
That Old Soft Shoe T 
Transylvania Twist T 
Two Point Crack T 


YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Page Views: 1,455
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 13, 2003

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This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.


Take the large end of a standard rack, including hexes and cams. Medium sizes pieces could assist with the building of the belay up top.

Photos of Diabetics Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Diabetics, 5.4
BETA PHOTO: Diabetics, 5.4
Rock Climbing Photo: Diabetics

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By Steve Powell
Nov 26, 2007

not bad, a little runout at top
By Curtveld
Mar 18, 2016

Fun little climb! Mostly good description above. We climbed the face just right of the crack which allows you to pro the crack. There is a good small nut placement in the 'runout' section toward the top. Agree the down-climb is low 5th, so I lowered my novice partner before down climbing

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