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Diabetics Are Sweet 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matt Evans, Spencer Sitton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: matt evans on Jul 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The route


Dirty corner system down low leads to a large ledge. After this the good part of the route starts which is a hand crack supplemented by face features, a crack traverse, then a larger hand crack above. The upper hand crack section has a massive chock stone that is not coming out anytime soon, which is unfortunate because the climb would be better without it. I had to tear out a couple of bushes on this climb. Mostly 5.6 and 5.7 moves with a 5.8 move or two after the traverse.


Head up hillside similar to Bizarre Garb approach, but once you can see bizarre garb face above, stop hiking up and traverse climber's right toward group of rocks to the east. Cross a small boulder field until you see some dirty looking rock. Pass this dirty rock, pass a massive detached fin (which has a great arête climb on it that we didn't have time to climb), and then turn around to see the route which is east facing. Descent is a walk off.


Single rack with a #4 and doubles of #3 and #2 for trad anchor above.

Photos of Diabetics Are Sweet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: W/o lines
BETA PHOTO: W/o lines
Rock Climbing Photo: On the FA
On the FA

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