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Dana's Arch Area
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Gunstone, Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Oct 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jessica leading off the big ledge, starting up 2nd...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


With the possible exception of "The back road", this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall.

P1: ~5.8+. Start with a rightward traverse to a flake and then jam a hand-fist crack to a large ledge with a big fir tree.
(A more challenging first pitch is "The death of Abraham Lincoln by mounties" (5.11c), which goes up the steep face and corner just right of the regular first pitch. )

P2: ~5.9. Start up a pair of thin face cracks, but soon traverse left into the long corner system. The crux is either the thin crack or the traverse into the corner. This pitch is about 150 feet and ends at a bolted belay.

P3 (original): ~5.7. A much shorter pitch that goes up past a bolt to the top of the wall. Some root-grabbing at the end.

P3-P4 (better variation): 5.9. Traverse out right on the exposed ramp about 30' (takes gear). Belay at the bolted anchor. Then do a fantastic, steep 5.9 arete, protected by bolts. Ends at a large platform-overlook spot with a bolted anchor.

For the descent, the easiest is to rap the route. If you do the better variation finish, you can walk over to the other anchor to rap.


To reach the base, go further left along the wall from the start to Back road and Jungle fun. Just after pulling up the hand line, trend right to a tree. Start with a rightward traverse to the corner-crack.


Nuts and cams to wide-fist size. For the second pitch, it may help to have doubles in the hand size, or at least doubles of large nuts.

Photos of DGS Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper section of P2
BETA PHOTO: Upper section of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the belay at the top of DGS pitc...
Looking down from the belay at the top of DGS pitc...

Comments on DGS Add Comment
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By Jacob Smith
From: Seattle, WA
May 4, 2014

Two ropes are needed to rap the route (one 70m was about 20 ft short), with one you have to use an intermediate anchor on a tree to the left of the second pitch, which could probably be backed up/replaced.
Also, I'm not sure what's going on with the "two thin face cracks," we found one that was too thin to use and one that was neither thin nor a face crack that went directly into the corner.
Also, despite a moderate grade and good rock, this route is quite dirty, expect a bit of a grovel and bring lots of long slings.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Surprising good even with the dirty first pitch. I may need to clean a direct start to this. We had a tag line and did one double rope rap back to big ledge.
By Zak Krenzer
From: Auburn, WA
Aug 25, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's truly a shame that this route does not receive the traffic and attention that it deserves. If you are up for a little bushwacking and the feel of a FA, this is right up your alley!

We climbed this yesterday and it was among the dirtiest routes I've climbed (outside of the desert). This route is a truly a diamond in the rough, so long as you can get past the endless spiderwebs, moss, lichen, and foliage. The granite was wonderful, the movement was very fun, and the rock was solid!

My partner and I finished on the original P3, which was very short, but still enjoyable. The route is fun, with good jams, and takes mostly hand sized pieces. I didn't place a lot of nuts or small gear, but singles from Tips-#4 Camalot will give you plenty of options. Doubles in the handsizes (.75-#3) are recommended for the 45-meter second pitch, on which I was glad to have brought a #4 camalot.

DESCENT can be made with a single 70M rope. Rap from a tree with tat above the final 5.7 pitch or the chains located just left of the 5.9 variation top-out, down to the chains at the top of P2. From P2, rap about 25M to a tree directly below. From the tree, Rap to the climbers right towards the chains at the top of P1. Finally, Rap P1 to the ground. Take care when at the tree rap as there is a large, mini-fridge sized block that is loose and ready to come off.

If you're an upstanding steward of the area, you might bring along a brush and/or a broom and do a little cleaning to get this gem into better shape. GO CLIMB THIS!

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