REI Community
Dexter Canyon

Select Area...
Bowling for Keeps Cliff 
Clark Kent Cliff 
Dollar Short Cliff 
Door into Summer Cliff 
Gravity Wall 
Vapor Lock Cliff 

Dexter Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,188'
Location: 37.83477, -118.78298 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,053
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 1, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Boreal advert (1990) with John Bachar soloing Grav...


This area, not seen from Highway 120, contains some of the best volcanic-rock cragging in the Mammoth area. It offers excellent crack climbing.

I'll get photos to help with the descriptions as soon as I can get up there again.

Getting There 

Take Hwy. 120, east from 395 for 16 miles to Sagehen Summit. Turn right on 1N02 and follow it 8.5 miles to the Dexter Canyon campsite. Walk down into the canyon from here.

For complete information get "Mammoth Area Rock Climbs" by Marty Lewis and John Moynier.

Climbing Season

For the Eastern Hills area.

Weather station 15.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Dexter Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: E. Allen and K. Yager at the crux on the FA.

Clark Kent 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Clark Kent Cliff
One of the best at Dexter. Rope drag precludes doing it in one long pitch. P1: Start with the crux off the ground in twin thin cracks. Follow easier crack climbing and belay under a large roof about 100 feet up.P2: Hand traverse to the right edge of the roof, then jam and stem up a very cool overhanging corner....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Dexter Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
May 21, 2012
Dexter Canyon is the epitome of adventure climbing. Its not so much about the climbing but the whole experience.

I'd recommend bringing slightly larger pro than the Mammoth guide suggests. The guide recommends pro up to 4 inches, but in the crux 5.9 offwidth of Forbidden Planet my 4 inch cams were too small so I was faced with a 30 foot runout.

Quite the adventure. A very cool place, but don't expect to get a lot of climbing in unless you have the place wired.

Also, I second the ideas that its difficult to identify the climbs.

Edit: Be careful going down the approach trail; its loose! I was chased by a boulder about the size of a legless and armless man. Luckily, I didn't get squashed.
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Jul 6, 2014
This area is unique. It features great crack climbing for those who have the adventurous spirit. You have a hike a lot through deep pumice to get here. It is a full on mission. There a few that are top notch and a lot of marginal climbs.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About