Devonshire Pillar
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | TR Jon Crefeld & Steve Knowlton 2008 |
Page Views: | 872 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | kenr on Dec 24, 2015 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Very interesting rock in the lower section, then a balancy reachy interesting traverse sequence (if following the Lead FA way). Or finish with thin tricky face climbing if finishing straight up (on Top-Rope).
Up the crack, then step right across two-foot-wide nose (or climb a bit higher on left side of nose before traversing), next up a little, then traverse farther right almost to above the overhang in the right arete. Then up (perhaps with a left-ward trend) to the top.
Variation: direct Top-Rope finish (5.10a): Stay on the left side of the nose, then straight to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Up the crack, then step right across two-foot-wide nose (or climb a bit higher on left side of nose before traversing), next up a little, then traverse farther right almost to above the overhang in the right arete. Then up (perhaps with a left-ward trend) to the top.
Variation: direct Top-Rope finish (5.10a): Stay on the left side of the nose, then straight to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Obvious vertical crack with right-facing flake sections in the right (east) half of main Devonshire face. See Routes photo.
Protection
Top-Rope: Set up top anchor well below the cliff top with a long static line.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is uncertain.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is uncertain.
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