|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 370'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X [details]|
|FA:||Steve Grossman and Fig Fiola, 1981|
|Submitted By:||Geir on Sep 4, 2014|
|Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Devoid||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
This is one of the most unique, badass, and wild climbs I've ever done. It's definitely not for the faint of heart, but if you think you're up for the mental challenge then quit wasting time and go get on it: you won't be disappointed!
P1: There is a bolt visible from the ground, but this is the second bolt. I made the mistake of aiming for it and nearly climbed past the first bolt, which was just below and about 20' right of me.
P2: There is a bolt visible about 30' right of the belay. This is apparently part of a different route. Anyways, I climbed to it and then worked up and back left to the crack that is mentioned in Geir's route description. The climbing through this section is really wide and included, for me, foot-shoulder chimneying. From the crack I headed directly left (facing Chey Desa Tsay) until I could turn around and reach some plates on the Rockfellow side. There is some loose rock and committing moves here, and falling would not be very fun. I brought a 15' length of webbing for the belay on this pitch.
P3: Easy climbing leads to some bomber nut placements then hard-to-read face/slab climbing up to and through two bolts to the summit. Falling at the first bolt would probably hurt.
As for gear, I only used two finger sized pieces in the crack on P2 and two nuts on P3. There is apparently some placements that I missed on the first pitch, but I'd say that a single set and some nuts will be more than sufficient for the route.