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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Devil's Trilogy 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 342
Submitted By: MattH on Jan 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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A small grill that can be found in the pit about 2...

Description 

The bolted arete above Universal Socket that's probably more suitable as a boulder problem to the obvious lip. Start low, slap up edges on either side of the arete.

Location 

Above the Universal Socket boulder is a cave, which has an obvious, clean arete on its right side. This line climbs that arete.

Protection 

Pads


Photos of Devil's Trilogy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Devil's Trilogy. You can see the bol...
A view of Devil's Trilogy. You can see the bol...

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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jan 5, 2016

I don't know if this has a name as a boulder problem, but I believe the route that climbs this arete and continues up the face is called Devil's Trilogy 5.13b. Either way I'd keep the name as you have it, it's a really cool name and fitting for the den. Thanks for posting it up.

I've gone up and looked at this arete and it looks really sick, people should definitely get psyched on this, I'll try to take a picture next time I'm out there (no clue when that'll be though). I don't know where this problem would finish or drop off from though, there's a juggy looking thing up the arete but it's like 15 feet up.
By MattH
Jan 5, 2016

Eh, I'm inclined to change it to the actual route name now. The route wasn't in the '95 guidebook and the devil's den route section called it "unnamed arete" so I figured it was actually unnamed. I don't exactly remember where I was imagining the drop-off happening but I recall something that looked like a distinctive finish (like a point where you pull the lip onto the slab above), and I remember there being some post here about climbing it as a boulder problem. I thought there was a rising boulder underneath that made the landing a bit less treacherous but I could be mistaken.
Edit: I went ahead and changed the name to the guidebook title
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 21, 2016

Matt--

I'm the one that mentioned it as being more suitable as a boulder problem with a drop off. There is an obvious jug that you could drop from and honestly the landing is pretty manageable with a handful of pads and spotters. You can also stick clip a high bolt to work the moves/provide a safer option. If you were to climb it as a route, the bottom section is clean, but the upper slab is pretty mossy at this point. I've contemplated rapping in and cleaning it, but I'm pretty sure this climb doesn't even have anchors, unless I missed them when I was poking around up there.
By Graham O.
Sep 10, 2016

Went up there last time I was out and got some pictures of the problem. It looks rad! There is what looks like a recently installed bolt just over the jug, and a drop off jug just after that. Now that it can be safely attempted on Toprope, people should get on it! There was also chalk on the STEEP overhang to the left of it, but the flakes seemed pretty hollow.

Unfortunately, the remains of an illegal fire and a miniature grill can be found in the pit to the left of the problem (see photo above). It would be great to get a cleanup effort off the ground, since it's such a beautiful area and such a shame to see it being treated like this.

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