||Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 21 August 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Summer probably best|
|Page Views: ||1,054|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Aug 21, 2007|
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Devil's Tongue with Devil's Castle on the right.
|Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation|
This fun climb has 2 x 25m pitches and has a very alpine feel. Not too serious, however! It ascends the prominent pillar of the North West Face. Some afternoon sun, but not as high as DC. Most loose rock has been cleaned, but approach as you would any climb up at Devil's Castle and wear helmets and climb cautiously.
Pitch #1: Starts just to the right (west) of a large low angle gully. Some dirty or broken up sections down low lead to a cruxy edgy section with very good rock. Climb past about 8 bolts to a 3 bolt belay ledge. 5.10+, 25m.
Pitch #2: Steep, juggy, and pumpy moves up good rock past 4 bolts leads to lower angle terrain. Pass 4 more bolts to a ramp which leads to the two-bolt belay ledge. 5.10+, 25m.
2 rappels down the route with one rope.
The Devil's Tongue probably has another name from the Alta Ski Patrol, but it was unknown by this climber. This is a prominent buttress low and east of the well known Devil's Castle Apron ski run.
The approach to the beginning of the crag from the Albion Basin Campground is shorter than for Devil's Castle and probably was no more than 15-20 minutes.
10 QDs and one or two shoulder slings. Some climbers may opt to carry 2-3 micro-small Camalots. Well protected with Glue-in Bolts at the anchors.
Very foreshortened view from the base of the climb...
The route in profile about 15 minutes from the Alb...