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Devil's Thumb

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Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney T 
Hangnail T 

Devil's Thumb Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,950'
Location: 34.83743, -111.76708 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 618
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Derek Field on Nov 7, 2016
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: South East Chimney (Original Route)

Description 

Thumb-shaped spire sticking off the west side of Twin Buttes. Highly visible from many parts of Sedona, especially when driving south through town.

Currently there are two routes on this formation:
1. Southeast Chimney (5.7, 100 feet) is the original route to summit. Nice hand crack off ground followed by runout chimney.
2. Hangnail (5.10-, 190 feet) ascends a varied corner system on the northeast face. It's all about the second-pitch dihedral: splitter 4s to a small roof.

Getting There 

Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you are looking up at Devils Thumb. Pick a line up to the thumb through washes and ridges. Total: 20-30 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Twin Butte area.

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Thumb:
Hangnail   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Thumb

Featured Route For Devil's Thumb
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek on the pitch 2 FA of Hangnail.

Hangnail 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : Devil's Thumb
Pitch 1 5.8 80'- Follow a left angling crack/ramp to a corner where the crack starts to head straight up. Set up a gear belay here. (Lots of gear options for anchor but I recommend saving finger size stuff .4-.75) Pitch 2 5.10a 110'- Ahhh the good stuff. Head straight up to a short OW section to a roof. Go left out of the roof and follow a crack to the summit. Rap: There is a two bolt anchor on top. Rap 95' (single 60m) down to the east...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Devil's Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Thumb beckons from Mystic trailhead.
Devils Thumb beckons from Mystic trailhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Thumb, south face.
Devils Thumb, south face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Thumb during the final part of t...
Looking up at the Thumb during the final part of t...

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